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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - "Crescent" Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jon Skyes, Mike Lee 2010
Page Views: 489 total · 14/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Start on the face left of the somewhat ugly, somewhat rotten, wide crack. (Photo)
Climb the face [Var] past 3 bolts* and then ascend the 5-inch crack to the top.

[ * Stepping right to the large crack after Bolt #2 lowers the grade to about 5.8, the crux is the move(s) between bolt 2 and 3 ]

Variation - "Brain Fart Variation" Climb the wide, ugly crack to the clean upper crack. 5.8


Std rack, perhaps a wide cam (#4)


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Nice route, the most natural line about 5.8, depending on how hard you feel the early slab moves are. It was nice having the # 5 Camalot, which I actually used twice. I placed it to protect getting to the further bolt along the crack, then retrieved it once that was clipped and used it again above, though it would be pretty hard to fall out of the crack with your leg jammed in it. It can't be 140' tall as I lowered off with a single rope, a 60m I believe. Almost 3 stars Aug 1, 2016
Matt Vittorelli
Portland, Maine
Matt Vittorelli   Portland, Maine
Awesome route, great approach/easy car camping. A must to put on the to do list. Feb 17, 2017

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