Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jon Skyes, Mike Lee 2010
Page Views: 529 total · 12/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Start on the face left of the somewhat ugly, somewhat rotten, wide crack. (Photo)
Climb the face [Var] past 3 bolts* and then ascend the 5-inch crack to the top.

[ * Stepping right to the large crack after Bolt #2 lowers the grade to about 5.8, the crux is the move(s) between bolt 2 and 3 ]

Variation - "Brain Fart Variation" Climb the wide, ugly crack to the clean upper crack. 5.8

Protection

Std rack, perhaps a wide cam (#4)

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice route, the most natural line about 5.8, depending on how hard you feel the early slab moves are. It was nice having the # 5 Camalot, which I actually used twice. I placed it to protect getting to the further bolt along the crack, then retrieved it once that was clipped and used it again above, though it would be pretty hard to fall out of the crack with your leg jammed in it. It can't be 140' tall as I lowered off with a single rope, a 60m I believe. Almost 3 stars Aug 1, 2016
Matt Vittorelli
Portland, Maine
 
Matt Vittorelli   Portland, Maine
 
Awesome route, great approach/easy car camping. A must to put on the to do list. Feb 17, 2017