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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bolt in the Sky Unknown ... Life by the Numbers Ed Webster Rope solo Oct 1986
Page Views: 593 total, 23/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A nice link up. I supposed I could have called it "Bolt By the Numbers" (Joke)

P1 is 5.8 and well protected with bolts. P2 is 5.7+/5.8- The first 20 ft of P2 used to be 5.7+/5.8- "PG13/R-ish" but the crack's been cleaned for a gear placement and Webster's pin replaced. P3 is hard to rate. The first few feet off the belay is easy (5.5 ?), but there's no pro until the corner. "The Move" out of the corner left onto the face I sometimes feel is 5.6, other times 5.8. Wire nut(s) protect well; Just keep telling yourself the FA was a rope-solo ascent!

START: Hiking right along the base from the South (Left) Descent Gully you pass "Suzy Q" (at the height-of-land) and then drop down steeply to a nice, flat area. Life-by-the-Numbers starts on the left side of the slab. Bolt in the Sky starts on the right side of the slab. (photo)

Coming from the North (right) Descent Gully, or from the Center Cliff Rap Line this slab is about 80-100 ft left of the Green Mile, just after the trail climbs up, passing some downed birch logs, for a few feet.
P1 has six (6) bolts leading to a double-bolt anchor with rings.

P1 - Climb to the double bolt anchor. At one point, about 25 ft up, it is a bit easier to move right, almost to the arête, and then come back left. Above the 4th bolt the climbing eases. 75-80 ft 5.8 G/PG

P2 - (Joining Life By the Numbers) Face climb (5.7 / 5.8- ) up just left of the crack (piton and small TCU placement), then step right to the crack (pro, Red #1 Camalot), then up the crack ( 5.7/5.8-) [The crack was first climbed by Ed Webster in 1986 as part of P1 of Life by the Numbers.] The crack leads to a hollow flake (easy layback) and then back right to clip a new 3/8” bolt, (from another climb, I'd hope!) then up to the 'Quad bolt' anchor ( a new 3/8" SS, plus one old ¼” buttonhead from Ed, plus two old-ish 3/8") shared with Bolt in the Sky. 70 ft 5.8 Can be combined with P1 [Beta: The crack is climbed more on the face on the left, although near the top cross back to the right for footholds. ]

P3 - From the multi-bolt anchor climb across the slab [photo] to the right and enter what feels like a 'semi-slot' on the right outside corner of the arête. (Piton above, back up with small wired nut)
Move/step left, up onto the slab/face ( his 5.8 ?) then up slab/face to nice flakes-with-cracks (medium cams or nuts) “…and when the [flakes] end, climb up and a bit right (5.7-5.8 PG-13)on the sticky slab headed for better holds just left of the exposed arête. …past a bolt [ ¼" now replaced with 3/8"SS] to easier ground and run out the 5.2-5.4 R/X to the top. 145 ft 5.7 - 5.8 PG-13 / 5.3-5.4R A very nice pitch, and (I think) less exposed and 'R-ish' than Webster rated it. Surprising, since (in my opinion) the first pitch of the original Life-by-the-Numbers seems way 'sandbagged' for both the grade and the protection rating in Ed's guidebook!

Protection

Std Rack, small wire nuts
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Once at the roof, there's ample opportunity for good gear in cracks. Moving higher in the right-facing corner, "NE Alpine Start" is correct...the granite at the top of the corner is, shall we say, "weathered"; but not totally unreasonable for a wire nut or two. Then you step left out of the corner onto the face/slab on the left and climb the "sticky" slab to great gear in the next flake system. Above the top of the flakes there's a few feet of "sticky" slab where you really wouldn't want to fall (headed up and right towards the arete), then you start to get more positive hands and feet.

I, personally, find the whole pitch far less scary than, for example, that totally smooth, totally-unprotected-for-a-fall-into-the-slab-&-corner-below "5.6" dike getting up to the belay at the base of Cathedral's Bombardment crack. Yes, it's 5.6 but if you slip off it you won't be climbing for months, if ever, again. Jul 4, 2016
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
First pitch is classic well protected slab climbing, a fun pitch in it's own right. 2nd pitch was fun but the crack needs some cleaning. I cleaned what I could reach from the anchor while waiting my turn but it wouldn't take to long to root that out for some better pro. 3rd pitch definitely seemed serious to me. I didn't commit after the little roof in beta photo... rock quality is a bit crumbly and it looks like 15+ feet to solid pro from there. I think this may have been where the reported pin was earlier? Might be more reasonable if that found it's way back. Video of our day, 2nd half is this route:

youtube.com/watch?v=paKXMaD… May 27, 2016