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Elevation: 2,172 ft
GPS: 44.24859, -71.48615
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,602 total · 203/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

SW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts; older ones have mostly been replaced. Faces southwest and gets good sun (esp. in afternoon) in late winter (Mar-April).

Jon Skyes's "The Notches" (eaglecliffpub.com) contains excellent coverage of this cliff. 37 climbs are listed including many newer routes and variations, excellent photos (esp. of STARTs), and routes not included herein. Be WARNED, I quote from page 83 of "The Notches": " Be prepared for stiff ratings."
I have added FA info and made some corrections to routes here in mountainproject on the basis of that reference.

There are two Mt Oscar climbing areas, as shown by the excellent photo by Jamie Cunningham. The area described herein is the left-side, a.k.a. the "lower" (or perhaps "northern", or even "western") area.

The right side was developed by the climbers and guides operating out of the Breton Woods Mt Washington Hotel. At one time you could purchase, for about $3, a small, 4-5 page guide at the front desk of the Ski Resort (NOT the Hotel!). This cliff, which is East of the main cliff described herein, is (unfortunately) often referred to as "West" (or "Western") since from the ski area's point of view it is on what they call "West Mountain". In the summer chairlift rides ($5 per person, as of 2017) are offered. From the top of the chairlift the cliff/slab is about a 15-20 min, mostly downhill, walk. Follow the marked walking trail towards West Mountain, and about 1/2 way there the "Rock Climber's only" path splits off left. It's actually a quite enjoyable slab, excellent for training, bolted belays and many climbs have bolts but a small trad rack is also suggested. A single 60m will usually get you down from bolted belay/rap station to the next, or the ground. Don't forget to be back before they close the chairlift, or hike back down to your car.

As pointed out on Jamie's photo, there's a "middle" area that seems yet(?) to be developed.

Getting There Suggest change

Usual Approach: Drive (or walk/ski if road is closed) south on the Zealand Road from Rt 302 for 1.0 mile to the parking lot for Sugarloaf Trail. [Day-use parking fee*] There is a gated fire service road on the East side of the road.

Walk (or Mtn Bike) the forest service road for exactly one mile. Before the correct trail to the crag there appears to be a path ( on the left) that ends after 10 - 20 ft in total overgrowth.  There is a 5 foot boulder with a small cairn on the left just before the trail to the cliff but it is hard to see as some tree branches have started to hide it. The cairn is very small and hard to see. About 30' after the boulder look for a path through the underbrush on your left. You should see broken branches and other signs of past passages.  50-75 ft of underbrush leads to a path through the open forest where there is another small cairn on a rock.  Another 5-10 min and you arrive at the climbs Oscar Meyer and Touch of Grey.

GPS Coordinates are set to this location. (base at approx. Oscar Meyer / Touch of Grey)

Re the fee*: It's $5/day (2019) or any of several annual($25) or lifetime passes ($80 lifetime if 62 or older [it once was only $10 !). The fee applies to any parking here, on both sides of the road. If you don't have a pass and don't want to pay, there's a pull out on the right ('west') in another 1/4 mile that's free; just don't block the gate. This "free parking" also works for Sugarloaf...just walk up the fire-road to the right until the Sugarloaf trail crosses at a 90-degree angle.t

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Oscar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Oscar Mayer
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 26
Oscar the Grouch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Bucking Bronco Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Crescent Cracks
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
The Perez Highway
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Caveat Emptor
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Bipolar Brain Flush
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
Touch of Grey
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Moose Spirit
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Oscar's Last Stand
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Dir…
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Coffee Achievers
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
Three Bubbas Trilogy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oscar Mayer
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
 30
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Oscar the Grouch
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Bucking Bronco Arete
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Crescent Cracks
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Perez Highway
 16
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Caveat Emptor
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bipolar Brain Flush
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Touch of Grey
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Moose Spirit
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oscar's Last Stand
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor'…
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Coffee Achievers
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Three Bubbas Trilogy
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Oscar »

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