Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescents - per Skyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 2,172 ft
GPS: 44.249, -71.486 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,966 total, 130/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...


SW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts; older ones have mostly been replaced. Faces southwest and gets good sun (esp. in afternoon) in late winter (Mar-April).

Jon Skyes's "The Notches" ( contains excellent coverage of this cliff. 37 climbs are listed including many newer routes and variations, excellent photos (esp. of STARTs), and routes not included herein. Be WARNED, I quote from page 83 of "The Notches": " Be prepared for stiff ratings."
I have added FA info and made some corrections to routes here in mountainproject on the basis of that reference.

There are two Mt Oscar climbing areas, as shown by the excellent photo by Jamie Cunningham. The area described herein is the left-side, a.k.a. the "lower" (or perhaps "northern", or even "western") area.

The right side was developed by the climbers and guides operating out of the Breton Woods Mt Washington Hotel. At one time you could purchase, for about $3, a small, 4-5 page guide at the front desk of the Ski Resort (NOT the Hotel!). This cliff, which is East of the main cliff described herein, is (unfortunately) often referred to as "West" (or "Western") since from the ski area's point of view it is on what they call "West Mountain". In the summer chairlift rides ($5 per person, as of 2017) are offered. From the top of the chairlift the cliff/slab is about a 15-20 min, mostly downhill, walk. Follow the marked walking trail towards West Mountain, and about 1/2 way there the "Rock Climber's only" path splits off left. It's actually a quite enjoyable slab, excellent for training, bolted belays and many climbs have bolts but a small trad rack is also suggested. A single 60m will usually get you down from bolted belay/rap station to the next, or the ground. Don't forget to be back before they close the chairlift, or hike back down to your car.

As pointed out on Jamie's photo, there's a "middle" area that seems yet(?) to be developed.

Getting There

Usual Approach: Drive (or walk/ski if road is closed) south on the Zealand Road from Rt 302 for 1.0 mile to the parking lot for Sugarloaf Trail. [Day-use parking fee*] There is a gated fire service road on the East side of the road.
Walk (or Mtn Bike) the forest service road southeast for about 20 min. A few minutes after views of Sugarloaf become visible behind you and across the valley, you come to a wide open clearing (I think the 2nd such clearing, see PHOTO). Look for a small cairn on the left; take the now-growing-over logging road to the left for about 100yds and look for the obvious trail on the left. 5-10 min. to the base, arriving at the climb "Crescent".

GPS Coordinates are set to this location. (base at approx. Crescent )

Re the fee*: It's $3/day (2015) or any of several annual($25) or lifetime passes($10 lifetime if 62 or older). The fee applies to any parking here, on both sides of the road. If you don't have a pass and don't want to pay, there's a pull out on the right ('west') in another 1/4 mile that's free; just don't block the gate. This "free parking" also works for Sugarloaf...just walk up the fire-road to the right until the Sugarloaf trail crosses at a 90-degree angle.

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mount Oscar Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Oscar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar the Grouch
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bucking Bronco Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Perez Highway
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caveat Emptor
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bipolar Brain Flush
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moose Spirit
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oscar's Last Stand
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct F…
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coffee Achievers
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Three Bubbas Trilogy
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Oscar the Grouch 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Bucking Bronco Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Perez Highway 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Caveat Emptor 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Moose Spirit 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Randys Super Fine Triplishes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Oscar's Last Stand 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor'… 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Coffee Achievers 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Three Bubbas Trilogy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Oscar »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Lots and lots of routes here. The slabs are fun, the cracks are sharp, and it was all super fun. Actually, wait, I mean, um, this place is terrible and you should all stay away! As always, thanks so much to the developers! Still lots of potential FAs here.

Notes: the directions here are spot on: park 1mi up the road on the right, but then walk back down the road to a gated forest road (on the left on the drive in) and the approach is obvious. The cairn on the left side of the logging road is tiny, so keep an eye out for it.

A 70m rope is MANDATORY. The climbs we did were mostly 35m and a 60m would (obviously) not have made it down. We mostly stayed near the main area, so YMMV.

All of the climbs we did were mixed - you needed gear on each, and they are longer than they look from the ground.

I plan on going back soon! Sep 14, 2015
Mount Oscar was written up in climbing magazine back in the early 90's. I dont have the issue but I do have a post-it note with original route names. These would all be left of Coffee Achievers.
Oscar Mayers 5.6
Caveat Emptor 5.8+
Touch of Grey 5.9
Crescents 5.7
Dont Worry 5.9+
Sight of Line 5.8
Coffee Achievers 5.10+
I assume Caveat Emptor and Touch of Grey are the two unnamed classic lines right as you approach the cliff. Both used to have fewer bolts than they do now by the way. Aug 26, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Was in here 7-6-14 and noted many, if not all, of the older 3/8" bolts have been replaced with new 3/8" S.S. bolts on many of the climbs. (but, as far as I could tell no additional bolts were added to pre-existing routes) Someone has put "mucho-$'s" and time in making this cliff a much safer place.
See the NEClimbs website for more detailed info on this cliff and its routes. Jul 8, 2014
Jamie Cunningham
Suncook, New Hampshire
Jamie Cunningham   Suncook, New Hampshire
See Beta Foto Topo and match descriptions below.

1. Crescent 5.7
This nice 5.7 starts at the obvious right facing flake and crack start (defines boundary between two walls) then trends up and left and finishes on slabs above and out of sight. There is a bolted direct finish to this climb as well called Doh! (think Homer Simpson).
FA: Joe and Judy Perez

Variation 1a: Direct Finish 5.11a
FA: Jon Sykes &

2. ___?_______ 5.9 75’
Climb the center bolted face to two bolt belay.

Five bolts to the top.
FA: Jon Sykes & Mike Lee
FFA: Chris Marks & Jon Sykes Spring 2010

3. _____?______ 5.9 110’
Slab/face with series of bolts leading to 15 foot crack leading to a white prow. Crack converts to a left facing corner that defines the left side of the prow.

4. Ben Zen Send 5.8 100’
Start at left facing flake that leads to a left ascending diagonal crack. Traverse 10’ on this crack and climb face above that links three intermittent crescent cracks to the top. Can seep after rainy days.
FA: Ben Mirkin & Jon Sykes Spring 2009

5. Moose Spirit 5.10- 120’
Right facing flake (to right of Ben Zen Send). Climb flake through overlap to bolt. Climb straight up to 25’ exit crack.
History: Jon Sykes put in the bolts believing that he was doing the original ascent. Ben Savage and Bill Kieler claimed an earlier ascent.
ACB: Ben Savage & Bill Kieler Nov 19, 2013
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
West Wall is such a misnomer. It's to the east of everything listed here. Oct 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks, Rob. I moved the ones that are on your list. Should we have a main 'Mt. Oscar' heading and then "'Main Cliff' and 'West Wall" sub areas? Oct 30, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
I guess only the "administrator" can do something as simple as moving a climb from "unsorted" to "sorted", and then sort them in proper position. Since the trail comes up at Cresent, this cliff is a classic "left to right" sort. DUH !
Try the website "" for good descripions of other routes on Oscar. For the record, the order (left to right) is:
Unknown 5.9
Unknown #2 5.9
Ben Zen Send
Moose Sprit 5.10a
Moose Meat (Rancid) 5.10a
...Tripleishes 5.10a
Coffee Achievers 5.11a
French Roast Variation 5.11a
Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9
Bipolar Brain Fart Variation 5.8R
Oscar's Last Stand 5.10a
Bob Loblaw 5.7+
Unknown 5.10a
Ugly Dirty 5.7
Vegetated Gulley 5.1 Uhg!
Cunningham's Crusade 5.8
CC Direct Start Variation 5.6X
Three Bubba's Triology 5.11a
Unknown 5.8+
Vegetated Line (big right-facing inside corner)
Charismatic Mime 5.8
Broken Clown 5.6
(Perez) Highway 5.9
Bucking Bronco Arete 5.8
Raven Groove 5.6
Unknown 5.7
Wasabe Groove 5.8
Raven Ridge 5.6
Cruising the Great Corner 5.7
Oct 29, 2013
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I wish they'd just refer to the slabs behind Breton Woods as the "West Wall". However, it's all connected and you can walk along the bottom of that entire cliff band to reach the main Oscar walls.

Click here for topo (since using an img tag screws up the website) Sep 27, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
There are really TWO "Mt. Oscar's". The "USUAL Mt Oscar" is the one off the Zealand Road, with most of the 5.7 - 5.10 bolted routes, and the woods road approach past the old "Moose Heaven". (now, thankfully, unused by the State of NH).
The Breton Woods Hotel guides have developed a more slabby cliff off the backside of West Mt. in the ski area. Unfortunately this is also called "Mt Oscar". The normal approach is to take the (free in summer) chairlift ride on the "Bethlehem" quad, walk up to the col just south of West Mt. (near top of Zealand Quad chairlift) and then hike down 15min. to the base. A few nice beginner slab and easy crack routes. The ski lodge at the base sells a one-page photo guide for $3.
I do not know if the two cliffs are actually connected, but one guide told me the "Zealand Mt Oscar" could be reached in "another 20-30 minutes, so I'd guess they are separate. Sep 27, 2013
Kai Troester
Pepperell, MA
Kai Troester   Pepperell, MA
The GPS coordinates are 44.24938,-71.482987… Aug 23, 2011
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
what town is this area in ,having some trouble finding that out May 8, 2011
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR

rest of the routes are here and you can find more with beta photos in the forum section under "new rock route" look for mt. oscar Feb 14, 2011
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
hey so i read on that this is off the back side of bretton woods. is it off there west mountain and is there anyway to gain acces from the top of west mountain at bretton woods? Feb 13, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
So the link just takes you to the forums I guess. From there go to the forum " New Rock Routes" and find "Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mount Oscar." May 23, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
The approach for this crag is very easy, I believe it has been altered since John's description from recent logging activity. Drive down the Zealand Notch road to a parking lot on the right just before a bridge. Walk down the gated logging road on the left side of the road, just before the parking lot. Look for a small rock cairn in a clearing on the left side of the dirt road. Follow this trail to were it comes to the cliff at the base of Crescent.
This is a truly awesome place to crag on fun moderates. It is very user friendly with generous use of bolts. It took me a little while to get use to seeing some bolts where, from time spent at cathedral, I would not have expected them.
A rudimentary guide for this area can be found here: May 23, 2010
there are much more than ten routes now, most of the development has been from sykes/cunningham and crew, some really stunning lines. Sep 22, 2009
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Great cliff with fun climbing. Aug 18, 2009

More About Mount Oscar

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Mount Oscar (39)

Most Popular · Newest