Mount Oscar Rock Climbing
Routes in Mount Oscar
|Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13|
|Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Caveat Emptor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Coffee Achievers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Crescents - per Skyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Doh - Crescent Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|GPS:||44.249, -71.486 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionSW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts; older ones have mostly been replaced. Faces southwest and gets good sun (esp. in afternoon) in late winter (Mar-April).
Jon Skyes's "The Notches" (eaglecliffpub.com) contains excellent coverage of this cliff. 37 climbs are listed including many newer routes and variations, excellent photos (esp. of STARTs), and routes not included herein. Be WARNED, I quote from page 83 of "The Notches": " Be prepared for stiff ratings."
I have added FA info and made some corrections to routes here in mountainproject on the basis of that reference.
There are two Mt Oscar climbing areas, as shown by the excellent photo by Jamie Cunningham. The area described herein is the left-side, a.k.a. the "lower" (or perhaps "northern", or even "western") area.
The right side was developed by the climbers and guides operating out of the Breton Woods Mt Washington Hotel. At one time you could purchase, for about $3, a small, 4-5 page guide at the front desk of the Ski Resort (NOT the Hotel!). This cliff, which is East of the main cliff described herein, is (unfortunately) often referred to as "West" (or "Western") since from the ski area's point of view it is on what they call "West Mountain". In the summer chairlift rides ($5 per person, as of 2017) are offered. From the top of the chairlift the cliff/slab is about a 15-20 min, mostly downhill, walk. Follow the marked walking trail towards West Mountain, and about 1/2 way there the "Rock Climber's only" path splits off left. It's actually a quite enjoyable slab, excellent for training, bolted belays and many climbs have bolts but a small trad rack is also suggested. A single 60m will usually get you down from bolted belay/rap station to the next, or the ground. Don't forget to be back before they close the chairlift, or hike back down to your car.
As pointed out on Jamie's photo, there's a "middle" area that seems yet(?) to be developed.
Getting ThereUsual Approach: Drive (or walk/ski if road is closed) south on the Zealand Road from Rt 302 for 1.0 mile to the parking lot for Sugarloaf Trail. [Day-use parking fee*] There is a gated fire service road on the East side of the road.
Walk (or Mtn Bike) the forest service road southeast for about 20 min. A few minutes after views of Sugarloaf become visible behind you and across the valley, you come to a wide open clearing (I think the 2nd such clearing, see PHOTO). Look for a small cairn on the left; take the now-growing-over logging road to the left for about 100yds and look for the obvious trail on the left. 5-10 min. to the base, arriving at the climb "Crescent".
GPS Coordinates are set to this location. (base at approx. Crescent )
Re the fee*: It's $3/day (2015) or any of several annual($25) or lifetime passes($10 lifetime if 62 or older). The fee applies to any parking here, on both sides of the road. If you don't have a pass and don't want to pay, there's a pull out on the right ('west') in another 1/4 mile that's free; just don't block the gate. This "free parking" also works for Sugarloaf...just walk up the fire-road to the right until the Sugarloaf trail crosses at a 90-degree angle.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Oscar
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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