Elevation: 2,172 ft
GPS: 44.249, -71.486 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,681 total · 176/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

SW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts; older ones have mostly been replaced. Faces southwest and gets good sun (esp. in afternoon) in late winter (Mar-April).

Jon Skyes's "The Notches" (eaglecliffpub.com) contains excellent coverage of this cliff. 37 climbs are listed including many newer routes and variations, excellent photos (esp. of STARTs), and routes not included herein. Be WARNED, I quote from page 83 of "The Notches": " Be prepared for stiff ratings."
I have added FA info and made some corrections to routes here in mountainproject on the basis of that reference.

There are two Mt Oscar climbing areas, as shown by the excellent photo by Jamie Cunningham. The area described herein is the left-side, a.k.a. the "lower" (or perhaps "northern", or even "western") area.

The right side was developed by the climbers and guides operating out of the Breton Woods Mt Washington Hotel. At one time you could purchase, for about $3, a small, 4-5 page guide at the front desk of the Ski Resort (NOT the Hotel!). This cliff, which is East of the main cliff described herein, is (unfortunately) often referred to as "West" (or "Western") since from the ski area's point of view it is on what they call "West Mountain". In the summer chairlift rides ($5 per person, as of 2017) are offered. From the top of the chairlift the cliff/slab is about a 15-20 min, mostly downhill, walk. Follow the marked walking trail towards West Mountain, and about 1/2 way there the "Rock Climber's only" path splits off left. It's actually a quite enjoyable slab, excellent for training, bolted belays and many climbs have bolts but a small trad rack is also suggested. A single 60m will usually get you down from bolted belay/rap station to the next, or the ground. Don't forget to be back before they close the chairlift, or hike back down to your car.

As pointed out on Jamie's photo, there's a "middle" area that seems yet(?) to be developed.

Getting There

Usual Approach: Drive (or walk/ski if road is closed) south on the Zealand Road from Rt 302 for 1.0 mile to the parking lot for Sugarloaf Trail. [Day-use parking fee*] There is a gated fire service road on the East side of the road.
Walk (or Mtn Bike) the forest service road southeast for about 20 min. A few minutes after views of Sugarloaf become visible behind you and across the valley, you come to a wide open clearing (I think the 2nd such clearing, see PHOTO). Look for a small cairn on the left; take the now-growing-over logging road to the left for about 100yds and look for the obvious trail on the left. 5-10 min. to the base, arriving at the climb "Crescent".

GPS Coordinates are set to this location. (base at approx. Crescent )

Re the fee*: It's $5/day (2019) or any of several annual($25) or lifetime passes ($80 lifetime if 62 or older [it once was only $10 !). The fee applies to any parking here, on both sides of the road. If you don't have a pass and don't want to pay, there's a pull out on the right ('west') in another 1/4 mile that's free; just don't block the gate. This "free parking" also works for Sugarloaf...just walk up the fire-road to the right until the Sugarloaf trail crosses at a 90-degree angle.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Oscar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Oscar Mayer
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 21
Oscar the Grouch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Ben Zen Send
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Crescent Cracks
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
The Perez Highway
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Caveat Emptor
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Bipolar Brain Flush
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Touch of Grey
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Moose Spirit
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Oscar's Last Stand
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Coffee Achievers
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Dir…
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
Three Bubbas Trilogy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oscar Mayer
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Oscar the Grouch
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Ben Zen Send
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crescent Cracks
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Perez Highway
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Caveat Emptor
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bipolar Brain Flush
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Touch of Grey
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Moose Spirit
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oscar's Last Stand
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Coffee Achievers
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor'…
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Three Bubbas Trilogy
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
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