Mount Oscar Rock Climbing

SW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts; older ones have mostly been replaced. Faces southwest and gets good sun (esp. in afternoon) in late winter (Mar-April).

Jon Skyes's "The Notches" (eaglecliffpub.com) contains excellent coverage of this cliff. 37 climbs are listed including many newer routes and variations, excellent photos (esp. of STARTs), and routes not included herein. Be WARNED, I quote from page 83 of "The Notches": " Be prepared for stiff ratings."
I have added FA info and made some corrections to routes here in mountainproject on the basis of that reference.

There are two Mt Oscar climbing areas, as shown by the excellent photo by Jamie Cunningham. The area described herein is the left-side, a.k.a. the "lower" (or perhaps "northern", or even "western") area.

The right side was developed by the climbers and guides operating out of the Breton Woods Mt Washington Hotel. At one time you could purchase, for about $3, a small, 4-5 page guide at the front desk of the Ski Resort (NOT the Hotel!). This cliff, which is East of the main cliff described herein, is (unfortunately) often referred to as "West" (or "Western") since from the ski area's point of view it is on what they call "West Mountain". In the summer chairlift rides ($5 per person, as of 2017) are offered. From the top of the chairlift the cliff/slab is about a 15-20 min, mostly downhill, walk. Follow the marked walking trail towards West Mountain, and about 1/2 way there the "Rock Climber's only" path splits off left. It's actually a quite enjoyable slab, excellent for training, bolted belays and many climbs have bolts but a small trad rack is also suggested. A single 60m will usually get you down from bolted belay/rap station to the next, or the ground. Don't forget to be back before they close the chairlift, or hike back down to your car.

As pointed out on Jamie's photo, there's a "middle" area that seems yet(?) to be developed.