Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Uwe Schneider & Chris Pastoriza
Page Views: 547 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeremy Abbott on Oct 4, 2015 with updates from Uwe Schneider
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb a steep slab and water groove after climbing either R.S.F.T or French roast variations. After climbing either variation, stand on top of a small ledge. Clip the right bolt and make hard moves into a shallow groove. Good foot work will get you through the tough sections and to a happy slot for your tips. Optional micro cam. Continue to the top via rounded edges to only find yourself stumped as you try to reach the anchor.

Location

Located to the left of Bipolar Brain Flush. Look for a great left trending off-width crack. This is Bipolar Brain Flush. 15' to the left there is a slab with 1 bolt and an obvious under cling flake system. That is the French Roast Variation .11a. As you come down the trail the right to left corner is R.S.F.T .10a. Climb either to the ledge and continue to the top.

Protection

6 bolts. Also a place for some micro cams if desired between spaced bolts. 00-3 C3 cams. If you climb French roast a BD#1 or Tricams behind the hollow flake system. Small cams/ wires for R.S.F.T corner.

History

Uwe Schneider writes: This route was first climbed in 1989. All of the bolts were placed on the lead, some from aid using "crackin ups" a Chouinad Equipment invention. Grade: 5.10+. FA: Uwe Schneider and Chris Pastoriza.

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