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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescents - per Skyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: FA: Mike "Bubba" Lee, FFA: Peet Danen & J Skyes
Page Views: 1,448 total, 18/month
Shared By: patrick donahue on Feb 14, 2011 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Look for a prominent wide 3-5  crack. With awkward access from the ground follow left to right snaking hand crack to a bolt (crux). Climb hand crack at 5.7 (very course- tape advised) that leads to a bolt on a slab. Climb past bolts on slabs to an arete finish.

Location

Look for a prominent wide 3-5  crack

Protection

standard rack and bolts

Photos

Cron
Barrington, NH
 
Cron   Barrington, NH
 
I thought the lower bolted section was the crux of the route, felt spicy when wet at least. The hand/fist crack is spectacular, one of the best little sections of moderate crack I've climbed in NH so far. Jun 26, 2017
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
Mark, you've got it. I've always started the route as where the Beta photo is showing a party starting. This can be done with a 60M, PLEASE tie knots in the end you may come up 10' short (especially lowering the leader). I've heard the slab is the crux and it starts down the slope on your left, is bolted, and requires a 70M. The beautiful hand crack is argued 5.7/5.8.... I'll vote the latter. Oct 28, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.7+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.7+
Nice route, Though I am not quite sure where the 9 part is. Is it down low where the two bolts are? We started to the right of those bolts, so maybe we skipped it. Aug 2, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
When you arrive at the crag, this is about 40ft up the slope to climbers right. It's to the left of Charismatic Mime. Oct 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.7+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.7+
Can anybody tell me where this is relative to the other climbs listed? Oct 30, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Coarse indeed. Fun hand crack nonetheless.

There's also an additional bolted face climb (called Oscar the Slouch, 5.10+, Syke/Lee) that goes up the arete right of the crack. It has it's own bolts on the slab above, leading to the same anchor. Sep 9, 2013