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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - "Crescent" Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Mike Lee, Jon Sykes, Rick Gaukel, Jamie Cunningham, 2012
Page Views: 46 total · 11/month
Shared By: Emmett Lyman on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Fun climb along an obvious line moving up a corner crack through a steepening ripple along the left-facing corner. Climb up to a bolt, then exit up the corner to a shallow groove on low angle slab. Slab climb a sparse bolt line until it abruptly ends, then traverse 25 ft directly right across thick lichen (heady) to a 2-bolt anchor. A 70m rope will just get you down.

I added this to MP to say that this isn't a good climb for the budding 5.8 leader. Sparse bolts and little to no gear except at the bottom and top of the route. 2nd bolt in particular can't be clipped until after the crux, and a fall could be messy if your belayer isn't perfect. Likewise there's a big cheese grater pendulum at the top if you blow it while traversing the lichen. If you're looking for safe 5.8 on bolts check out Perez Highway instead. PG/PG-13

Location

About 50' right of Raven Groove

Protection

6 bolts IIRC. Consider bringing a a small selection of gear to protect the opening moves and the heady traverse at the top (small cams).

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