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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - "Crescent" Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 85 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Lee, Jon Skyes 2011
Page Views: 834 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeffrey.LeCours on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Belay and start from a flat dirt mound on the hillside, to the right of Oscar the Grouch. Head up the left side of the slab to a small ledge and the first bolt. Slab up past two more bolts before heading left and towards the horizontal overlap about a third of the way up. Place some gear and then step up onto the overlap and continue to a right angling crack seem. Continue up flakes near a bushy ledge and past a few more bolts to the anchors and a comfortable stance.

A second pitch (5.6) continues up the face past three bolts.

Location

The left side of the slab that's right of Oscar the Grouch (which has a noticeable hand crack up high). Charismatic Mime has an overlap 1/3 of the way up.

Protection

Mostly bolted but takes gear (I slotted #7 BD nut) at the overlap 1/3 of the way up. Additionally can take small gear (red BD C3) in the crack seem just past the overlap. Rap links at the anchor.

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
"You just gotta want it"

Point well taken (and corrected). I must have checked the box thinking well, Sydney followed it on top rope after I came down... which is clearly a different meaning. Apr 4, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+
I was adding FA info to routes and noticed Jeffery had ticked "TR Top Rope" for this climb. Not sure how one could do this without a large circumvent of the whole cliff. Mar 28, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+
I've always felt the crux was up climbing the face, or "flakes" as described here, just left of the bushes. Nor do I remember any bolts (except the anchors) above this point (but that was a few years ago, maybe some added?) The climbing protected with medium cams, if I recall. (#0.5 -purple, and #1 - green Camalots) Aug 23, 2015

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