Type: Trad, 85 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Lee, Jon Skyes 2011
Page Views: 876 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeffrey LeCours on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Belay and start from a flat dirt mound on the hillside, to the right of Oscar the Grouch. Head up the left side of the slab to a small ledge and the first bolt. Slab up past two more bolts before heading left and towards the horizontal overlap about a third of the way up. Place some gear and then step up onto the overlap and continue to a right angling crack seem. Continue up flakes near a bushy ledge and past a few more bolts to the anchors and a comfortable stance.

A second pitch (5.6) continues up the face past three bolts.

Location

The left side of the slab that's right of Oscar the Grouch (which has a noticeable hand crack up high). Charismatic Mime has an overlap 1/3 of the way up.

Protection

Mostly bolted but takes gear (I slotted #7 BD nut) at the overlap 1/3 of the way up. Additionally can take small gear (red BD C3) in the crack seem just past the overlap. Rap links at the anchor.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+
I've always felt the crux was up climbing the face, or "flakes" as described here, just left of the bushes. Nor do I remember any bolts (except the anchors) above this point (but that was a few years ago, maybe some added?) The climbing protected with medium cams, if I recall. (#0.5 -purple, and #1 - green Camalots) Aug 23, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+
I was adding FA info to routes and noticed Jeffery had ticked "TR Top Rope" for this climb. Not sure how one could do this without a large circumvent of the whole cliff. Mar 28, 2017
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.8
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.8
"You just gotta want it"

Point well taken (and corrected). I must have checked the box thinking well, Sydney followed it on top rope after I came down... which is clearly a different meaning. Apr 4, 2017