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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescents - per Skyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe & Judy Perez 10/24/08
Page Views: 612 total, 21/month
Shared By: John Halupowski on Jul 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A clean well bolted slab 1st pitch and a little wandering second pitch.
P.1 A bouldery start up nice slab passing 8 bolts to a two bolt rap anchor. (3 star pitch worth doing even if you don't have time for P.2) 70' 5.8+
P.2 Climb up a right diagonal ledge for about 30' to a bolt on the right side of a slab. Up the slab passing more bolts to a rap anchor. 5.7 140'

Location

Located about 200' right of the approach trail on the right side of the first slabs just before a vegetated section and a slight uphill trend to the trail.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Yup, considerably harder than the Milky Way pitch (5.9) on Across the Universe. Oct 23, 2017
Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
Perez is definitely thin for a couple of moves at the top, but the route is uncharacteristically (for Oscar) closely bolted, so a fall should be safe. Oct 23, 2017
losbill
 
losbill  
 
Ditto what Robert posted. This thing kicks my butt at the top. I don't do enough slab to be able to rate it accurately but I don't think it is 5.8+. Unless going right at the top, grabbing vegetation and using more vegetation to hand traverse left to the anchor is what the FAist did. Jun 27, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
As a friend of mine, while making one of the early ascents, was asked "Whadda you think...5.8?". He replied: "Hell, I've just made four consecutive 5.8 moves and the hard part (the steeper headwall) is still coming up!"

"Lot's-a "plus" in that "plus"! Sep 29, 2015