Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Uwe Schneider & Thomas LaRose, Sept 1987
Page Views: 1,163 total · 22/month
Shared By: AWinters on Oct 21, 2014 with updates from ben smith
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

[Note: Name changed from "Unknown Left" when the correct name was sent by Jon Sykes June 2016 and confirmed by Uwe Schneider in Jan 2018. Rating left unchanged, although Wwe gave it a "5.8+" R.Hall 6-6-16 While all the protection is via bolts, it isn't really a "sport" climb in character. Also, IMO, I'm not sure about the absolute ratings, but I think "Touch of Grey" is more difficult than "Caveat", like 5.9+ vs 5.8+/5.9- ]

High first bolt at 20+ feet (5.7). Easier moves lead to a good stance, and a few sequences of higher difficulty. Another thin crux before the lip will get you to the bolt anchor at your left on the slab.

Location

First bolted line to the right of 'Crescent', staring you straight in the face as you approach the wall. Starts on a good ledge just off the ground.

Protection

5 bolts
2-bolt anchor with chains
Tri-cam in a pocket can be used between 3rd and 4th bolts, but makes the move harder as you eliminate a really good foothold !

Photos

AWinters
NH
  5.9
AWinters   NH  
  5.9
Spicy start with the high first bolt and the strangely placed third bolt, which is well out of reach from the good stance. Not recommended for a new 5.9 leader. I'm sure the first bolt's location prevents a lot of traffic, although the climbing is mellow. Considering all the other well-protected routes here though it just doesn't really seem to fit in. Highly enjoyable though! Oct 22, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
Agree with that 3rd bolt clip! I bring along a stiffened quick-draw to clip it from the good stance. Mar 30, 2016
I gave Caveat Emptor a rating of 5.8+ when I did the first ascent with my friend Thom LaRose in April of 1988. All protection bolts were placed on the lead. Jan 12, 2018