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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescents - per Skyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Uwe Schneider & Friend, 1988/89
Page Views: 998 total, 27/month
Shared By: AWinters on Oct 21, 2014 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

[Note: Name changed from "Unknown Left" when the correct name was sent by Jon Sykes June 2016. Rating left unchanged, although apparently "5.8+" was/is the "given" rating. R.Hall 6-6-16 Also, IMO, I'm not sure about the absolute ratings, but I think "Touch of Grey" is more difficult than "Caveat", like 5.9+ vs 5.8+/5.9- ]

High first bolt at 20+ feet (5.7). Easier moves lead to a good stance, and a few sequences of higher difficulty. Another thin crux before the lip will get you to the bolt anchor at your left on the slab.

Location

First bolted line to the right of 'Crescent', staring you straight in the face as you approach the wall. Starts on a good ledge just off the ground.

Protection

5 bolts
2-bolt anchor with chains
Tri-cam in a pocket can be used between 3rd and 4th bolts, but makes the move harder as you eliminate a really good foothold !

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
Agree with that 3rd bolt clip! I bring along a stiffened quick-draw to clip it from the good stance. Mar 30, 2016
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
Spicy start with the high first bolt and the strangely placed third bolt, which is well out of reach from the good stance. Not recommended for a new 5.9 leader. I'm sure the first bolt's location prevents a lot of traffic, although the climbing is mellow. Considering all the other well-protected routes here though it just doesn't really seem to fit in. Highly enjoyable though! Oct 22, 2014