Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 883 ft 269 m
GPS: 44.0058, -71.2406
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 480,118 total · 2,670/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

This Kancamagus region comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.

Getting There Suggest change

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.

Reference

Suggest change
The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.

476 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 24
Stop In French
Boulder
V8 7B
 5
Tsunami Sit (Tsunami Boulder)
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Bon Temps Rouler
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 35
Crack In The Woods
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 99
Vultures
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Judgement Day
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 42
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 75
Romper Room
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Steamroller
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 113
Eyeless in Gaza
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
Mithras
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 17
Vanishing Point
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Confederacy of Dunces
Trad, Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Exodus to the Promised Land
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
Yellow Matter Custard
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stop In French Sundown Ledge > Sundown Bouldering > 06. Campground Boulders
 24
V4 6B Boulder
Tsunami Sit (Tsunami Boulder) Sundown Ledge > Sundown Bouldering > 04. Tier 3 Boulders
 5
V8 7B Boulder
Bon Temps Rouler Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Crack In The Woods Crack In The Woods
 35
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Vultures Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 99
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Judgement Day Woodchuck Ledge > 4. The Diamond Wall
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack Woodchuck Ledge > 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
 42
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Romper Room Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 75
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Steamroller Woodchuck Ledge > 3. The Caterpillar Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Eyeless in Gaza Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 113
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mithras Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 27
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Vanishing Point Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 17
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Confederacy of Dunces Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Exodus to the Promised Land Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Yellow Matter Custard Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading