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Areas in WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Bear Mountain Slab 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Crack In The Woods 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Found Ledge 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Little Slabs by the Covered Bridge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lost Ledge 11 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges 8 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Painted Walls 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Rainbow Slabs 43 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 43
Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaway) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sundown Ledge 50 / 25 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 98
Woodchuck Ledge 22 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Elevation: 883 ft
GPS: 44.006, -71.241 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 127,174 total · 1,149/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

This Kancamagus region comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.

Getting There

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.
WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

Reference

The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.

214 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 38
Rock Garden
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Bon Temps Rouler
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Kennel Boy
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 17
Crack In The Woods
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 64
Vultures
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Agent Orange
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 58
Dikenstein
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 21
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
The Promised Land
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 46
Romper Room
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Steamroller
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 67
Eyeless in Gaza
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Mithras
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Naugahyde
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Yellow Matter Custard
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rock Garden Sundown Ledge > Lost Horizon
 38
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Bon Temps Rouler Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Kennel Boy Sundown Ledge > Lost Horizon
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crack In The Woods Crack In The Woods
 17
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Vultures Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 64
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Agent Orange Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dikenstein Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 58
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack Woodchuck Ledge > 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
 21
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Promised Land Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 23
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Romper Room Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 46
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Steamroller Woodchuck Ledge > 3. The Caterpillar Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Eyeless in Gaza Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 67
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mithras Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Naugahyde Sundown Ledge > Alcohol Wall
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Yellow Matter Custard Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) »

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Photos

The Kancamagus Crags are little pockets of wilderness climbing along the Swift River in the White Mountains. While Sundown Ledge sees more consistent traffic than the rest of these crags, the area as a whole offers a remote climbing experience compared to the usual NH destinations of Cathedral, White Horse, and Rumney.

The approaches to many of these crags are hard to find and strenuous. (Despite repeated attempts, no one I know has actually made it to Crag-Y.) However, this adventurous hiking is well worth the effort as the area offers a variety of classic cracks, engaging mixed routed, and steep bolted lines. Some of the more remote cliffs are home to five-star granite routes that see few ascents, and the rock here still carries the flavor of an untouched line--grainy, rain-washed, and brushed with lichen. Aug 18, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
Thanks for combining these, Jay! Oct 9, 2009
Crag Y is well worth the hike. Been there many times. Jul 1, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Hi Amy. You should add Crag Y to the database. I think it would be a useful addition. Jul 2, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Ah Yes, the great crag Y- Might scare some people now, lotsa old pins !!!!! and the SHE-RA a real 10d Jul 2, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
i was wondering if anyone could help me.im coming through the K and i was wondering how far is the bridge when you get on the K from Loon mountain side.i wanna climb lost ledge,and was wondering is the bridge on your left or right from the way im coming Sep 7, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The bridge would be on your left. I don't know the milage , though I bet you could figure it out from a map. Sep 7, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
thank you for your help Sep 8, 2010
dragons
MWV, NH
dragons   MWV, NH
FYI There's been a big fire that started near Albany Covered Bridge on Sat (Nov 12 2016). They're asking people to stay away for a few days: wmur.com/article/kate-mckin… Nov 14, 2016

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