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WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Bear Mountain Slab 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Crack In The Woods 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Crag Y 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Found Ledge 5 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Hidden Hollow 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Lost Ledge 14 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20

Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges 8 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Painted Walls 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Rainbow Slabs 44 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46

Riverstones, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaway) 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Sundown Ledge 71 / 38 / 2 / 223 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 329

Woodchuck Ledge 33 / 4 / 1 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 64

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Elevation:	883 ft	269 m
GPS:	44.0058, -71.2406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	481,012 total · 2,374/month
Shared By:	Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This Kancamagus region comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.

Getting There

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.

Reference

The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.

504 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V4 6B 30 ● Stop In French Boulder Sundown Ledge > Sundown Bouldering > 06. Campground Boulders
V8 7B 6 ● Tsunami Sit (Tsunami Boulder) Boulder Sundown Ledge > Sundown Bouldering > 04. Tier 3 Boulders
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 44 ● Bon Temps Rouler Trad Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 41 ● Crack In The Woods Trad Crack In The Woods
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 100 ● Vultures Trad Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 12 ● Judgement Day Trad Woodchuck Ledge > Diamond Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 50 ● Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack Trad Woodchuck Ledge > Zonkers Wall - upper…
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 81 ● Romper Room Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Steamroller Trad Woodchuck Ledge > Caterpillar Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 122 ● Eyeless in Gaza Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 29 ● Mithras Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 17 ● Vanishing Point Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 14 ● Confederacy of Dunces Trad, Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 8 ● Exodus to the Promised Land Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 12 ● Yellow Matter Custard Sport Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff