Elevation: 883 ft
GPS: 44.006, -71.241 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 248,300 total · 1,862/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

This Kancamagus region comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.

Getting There

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.
WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

Reference

The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.

252 Total Climbs

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Location: WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 46
Rock Garden
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Bon Temps Rouler
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Kennel Boy
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 21
Crack In The Woods
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Vultures
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Judgement Day
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Agent Orange
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 70
Dikenstein
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
The Promised Land
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 56
Romper Room
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Steamroller
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 84
Eyeless in Gaza
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Mithras
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Yellow Matter Custard
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rock Garden Sundown Ledge > Lost Horizon
 46
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Bon Temps Rouler Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Kennel Boy Sundown Ledge > Lost Horizon
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crack In The Woods Crack In The Woods
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Vultures Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Judgement Day Woodchuck Ledge > 4. The Diamond Wall
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Agent Orange Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dikenstein Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 70
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack Woodchuck Ledge > 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Promised Land Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Romper Room Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 56
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Steamroller Woodchuck Ledge > 3. The Caterpillar Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Eyeless in Gaza Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 84
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mithras Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Yellow Matter Custard Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) »

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