|GPS:||44.049, -71.378 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||52,171 total · 1,681/month|
|Shared By:||M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe Central Kancamagus Area is the largest geographical White Mountains region created here, which makes sense with much of the climbing traditionally thought of as relatively back country. It runs from Table Mtn. and Bartlett-Haystack around Bear Notch Rd in the east, through the beautiful Sawyer Pond basin north of the Kanc. then west past The Captain to include Bondcliff in the Pemigewasset Wilderness.
In reality some are barely back country with BH, Table, Mount Huntington and the NE crags of Greens approachable in an hour or less of hiking, which just gets you warmed up. The rest of Greens (1-1.5+ hrs) depending on crag and the Owls cliffs 1.5+ take a bit more work. The Captain (2-3 hrs) and Bondcliff (9+miles) retain the outback feel.
Each of the areas has its individual flavor, but share in that they are all granite. Greens and Owls around Sawyer Pond are probably the most civilized, with mostly bolted anchors and relatively well cleaned routes of all types. The Captain, with its beautiful steep slabs, has traditionally been developed as a ground up area. Bondcliff is more of a semi alpine area of questionable rock and little to no fixed gear, offering adventure and open views. It has been climbed all over, but purposely left by those who know it mostly unrecorded to retain the wilderness character.
Getting ThereAccess to the Central Kanc crags is from all points of the compass, sometimes changing with the season, so see the individual areas for detailed approach descriptions.
Owls Cliff, Bartlett Haystack and Table Mountain are approached from Bear Notch Rd, which connects the Kancamagus Hwy to the town of Bartlett. Be aware that the middle of BNR is seasonally closed, sometimes late into the spring.
Greens and The Captain are best approached from the north off Rt 302 via Sawyer River Rd (seasonal closures). If the river is low and you have a bike, it is probably faster to get to The Meadows Slabs of Greens directly off the Kanc.
Bondcliff has a 9+ mile approach (one of the more backwoods cliffs of The Whites!) and can be reached via the western end of the Kanc or Zealand Rd to the north.
Forest road closure status (not always accurate)
Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Central)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season