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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 8/31/2013
Page Views: 1,499 total · 28/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 3, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The inviting looking offwidth/chimney in the corner to the right of the Bigfoot arete - Make use of the tree to start (or awkwardly avoid it if you really wish), then stem, layback and finally do a little chimneying where the crack widens into a pod. Finish up with some steep handjams, finger locks and laybacks up the final crack. Really nice stone, fun moves and well protected.

Location

Land of Cracks (lower tier, right of the big green gully), in the big corner just right of the landmark sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here.

Protection

5 bolts, red #1 Camalot, med and large wired stoppers. You could use the .3 and .4 gray and purple Camalots up high if you wish, but it eats the wired stoppers there, especially if you have a couple big aluminum offsets. Bolted anchor

No big gear needed unless you want to avoid the bolts, in which case you will need a few of the biggest sized BigBros, and a #6 cam near the bottom (which wouldn't protect you much really).
Rob Albert
  5.9
Rob Albert  
  5.9
This isn't really an OW. It is more like a chimney/ face climb. It is well bolted where you can't get normal gear, and MUCH better than it looks. There is a huge variety of techniques to use on this climb. Super fun! DO IT! Sep 8, 2014
Waveclimb
LA, CA
Waveclimb   LA, CA
Best offwidth/chimney I've ever done! Sep 3, 2013