Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,585 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||M Sprague on Oct 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The 4 pitch RGC (Roger Gagne Classic) is a superb 5.8+ route, that would be a great way to get to know the middle part of the cliff. It works it's way up and right across the wall, with great climbing and incredible positioning that will keep you focused and entertained while at a moderate grade.
Pitch 1 climbs a short steep corner to gain a shallow right angling scoop that gets you up onto a ledge (gear and 2 bolts). Head right, following the easy but cool arching flake across the slab to the shared anchors. This is the original start. Alternatively, do the first pitch of Owl's Highway 5.8+(my choice) directly up to the same anchors.
Pitch 2: Head straight up the crack about 15 feet, then traverse right following a seam for maybe 30-40 feet until you can head up flakes to a bolted anchor below the arching Crack of the World - a great pitch
Pitch 3 Head up the flakes like you are doing Crack of the World, but before the arch, look for a bolt protected traverse heading right. Balancy moves will get you over to the corner. Make sure you use slings well here to lessen rope drag. Continue traversing out the corner and pull around the arete, crossing the last pitch of Owl Be Seeing You which you could join as an alternative finish if the normal route looks wet. After pulling around the arete, continue traversing left, balancing with no hands as you shuffle your feet across a horizontal to a nice ledge. Make sure you protect your second as soon as you reach the ledge. Continue over to the anchor at the base of a pillar.
Pitch 4: -often wet. Layback up the hanging pillar/ flake to a bolted anchor and lower back down. From the 3rd pitch anchor you can get down with 2 rappels on a single rope, making use of the anchors of the route below (Open Spaces 12a). The pillar can be seen here.