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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colburn - Sept 4, 2015
Page Views: 691 total, 26/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a link up of Steady Yeti into the top of Mountain Minor that may be even better than the original routes. Beautiful finger and hand crack climbing up a vertical wall of peach colored granite.

Stick clip the bolt at the start of Steady Yeti by coming in a bit on the ledge from the base of Bigfoot. Figure out the tricky sequence to move past the bolt to gain a horizontal where you can place a .75 Camalot with a shoulder sling out left. Finger pad edges get you up to the start of the crack. Head up the crack to about half way up the wall to just before the main crack arches right, and break left on a good angling fingercrack that takes you to the left side of the face to join Mountain Minor. Once you get to a stance at a horizontal below the upper face, put a cam out far to the right (purple or grey Camalot?) The gear is better out there and any potential fall is cleaner. Your next pro is a slung flake, then you do a couple mildly spicey balancey moves before you can get in some good nuts and gain the sweet right angling hand crack that takes you to the top.

Location

The Bigfoot area, on the sheer wall just left of the landmark sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Look for the high single bolt at the start.

Protection

A 60m rope will just get you down, so knot the end. Stick clip the bolt as some of the holds getting to it are friable and the landing is very bad (good rock afterwords). Single rack of nuts and cams to #3, double of the green .75 Camalot. The route seems to eat offset nuts, including the bigger ones. Bring a few shoulder length slings. Two bolt anchor with rings

Photos

Rob Albert
  5.10+
Rob Albert  
  5.10+
This is the best climb I have done at Green's so far. Mark, outstanding link up! No move harder than 10c or so, but it keeps coming at you. I would say in the 11s overall, but if you are a solid 10 leader, get on it! Probably G rated, since I brought lots of pieces, and managed to run out of gear! Amazing variety of moves; face, crimps, high steps, funky pulling, razor sharp jugs, and then hand jamming. Outstanding! Rack to #3, you may want doubles in #2 and #1 camalots. Aug 29, 2016