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Routes in Mount Huntington

Brother Laurence T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Once is Enough T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perennial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Migration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
no name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 2,897 ft
GPS: 44.041, -71.507 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,954 total, 44/month
Shared By: Bill Keiler on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

This is the prominent large, mostly slabby face you see to the north of the Kanc as you drive just east of the hairpin turn. It is about a third of the way across the Kanc coming from Lincoln. South facing and secluded, with reasonable to great rock quality.

Getting There

Drive East on route 112 from Lincoln. Park at a wide pull-off near a Forest Service sign that says ‘No camping or fires except at campgrounds’. This is located just downhill from where the road comes closest to the rock. Walk through the small clearing and look for an opening by a large rock. [2016 NOTE: See photo; look for birch logs marking start of the path.] Go through the 'enchanted forest' until you see double ribbons on a couple of trees. Follow ribbons right on a faint trail to the base of the wall. Allow about 30 minutes from the road. Note - The way in may or may not be clear. Be prepared for some thick bushwhacking. [2016 Note: Several blow-downs but path is fairly clear to follow.]

[2016 Notes by R Hall, NH Admin.]

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Huntington

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southern Migration
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Perennial
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southern Migration 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Perennial 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mount Huntington »

Weather Averages

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Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I was on the left side of Mt Huntington 6/17/17 and there is some fresh route activity. Someone hacked the trail in to open it up more. (Thank you.) There are now a couple of sport routes well to the left of Once is Enough. There was a fresh sling with rap rings above an anchor that I put in (2008-2009?) and in the anchor was a couple of new rap rings on the biners I left and a climbing rope tied off that went to the ground. I did a route below and climbers right of the anchor back in 2008/9 that went from the toe of the cliff up the arete to the anchor. The gear was crap and it wasn't worth adding any bolts due to the chossy rock which is abundant on this side of the cliff.

Bolted Routes
Anchors above arete
Route on Arete 2008/9? Jun 18, 2017
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
For beta on the left side I recommend that you stop in the Lahouts outdoor shop in the strip mall by the NH liquor store in Lincoln and talk to Chuck Woodman when he is working there. He is the local expert on Mt Huntington. He put up Once is Enough and Southern Migration. Someone started bolting a route(s) to the left of Once Is Enough. Last time I was there it was incomplete with an aider hanging from a bolt. I would guess that he is the one putting up new routes there or knows about them. I was going to put a route up on the arete just to the right of those routes but the rock was too chossy to bother. The rock quality on the bottom of the cliff is chossy in many places but it improves the higher you go. Mar 17, 2017
Anybody have beta/topos of routes on the left side of the cliff??? Mar 16, 2017
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
L-R SM variation 5.6, SM 5.9, Perennial 5.9, Perennial variation 5.5

mountainproject.com/v/10627… Jul 9, 2016
It appears standing at the toe of the slab L-R is, variation of Southern Migration 5.6, Southern Migration 5.6, Perennial 5.9 and farthest to the R, an easier variation to the start of Perennial. Each of these four first pitches have their own 1st pitch anchors. Can anyone confirm that the right-most route is in fact a Perennial variation or a route in and of-itself? It has one piton and one bolt through a couple overlaps before reaching its anchor which is at the same height as the 3 routes to the left. Jul 8, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Anyone have info. on the "new" bolted route between Southern Migration and Perennial? Jun 6, 2016
bradley white   Bend
Unnamed is a very committing climb and a climber can be killed doing this route with a rope. The approach too its base is horrendous, steep, loose footing and exhausting.
I went across the tongue at the base to traverse up hill. It is giant snow filled shoot in the winter to the base and from a ice climbing viewpoint start of Unnamed might be a better done in winter for protection. Horrendous bushwhack to the base of it and a wet summer gully's corner is right to the cliff start up a nice bulge ramp rope length besides the diagonal gully. Both terminate at ledge. Below and way down left or west is another section of the cliff. Here are a few ice routes and a bolted face climb. High quality rock climb but not a long pitch. Before this area is one long pitch massive buttress worth climbing. Other bolted possibilities are to be had. Approach is cumbersome or awful anywhere at the cliff base.
Painted a line on photo for unnamed route, the mid section location in slab okay and not accurate to footsteps taken because after goat path upper slab is wide to 'Southern Migration'. The line is correct higher to the finishing foot step ramp to rim jug top off.
I first ascended this ledge in 1981 and it poured on the second pitch of the left side of the tongue. I was on the lead. Got through it and safe back to the ground. A year or two later returned and soloed around to get to know it to bring the right gear.
I found the white pitons, earlier climbers. White pitons were way off the deck and nailing a pin so far off from the ground has elation and relief being safe again for me. The pin dudes were the capable climbers Earle Whipple, Bob Krusnyn and Hugo Stadmuller. They could have gone many ways up to the finishes at treeline.
Its very isolated and the approach is long. Some of us climbers didn't tell much about our outings to Huntington. Its become a personally developed mountain. The bolted routes and trad alike were personally developed. Visitors can be unsure of what name or if its been done before while climbing it. Personal development happened here in the 1960's and presently as soon as a climber gets committed to climbing the highways of Huntington. Jul 14, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Once is Enough (OIE) isn't anywhere near Perennial and Southern Migration. You have to split off the trail to the left a considerable way before you get to the base of those routes. It is actually a shorter approach. You can't see the first bolt on OIE until you climb up and around a corner. The route is fun except it is a bit convoluted in that you are climbing mostly 5.7 until you get to a headwall with one 5.10d move followed by a bit of 5.9. It is out of character with the rest of the route. The route is also controversial in that the critical hold at the crux was chipped out with a rock drill. There was a lengthy discussion about it on NE Climbs. The route description on NE Climbs is probably the best way to find it. There is also some route development going on to the left of OIE. The last time I was up there a couple of years ago there wasn't anything that looked finished.

>>Ok so I've climbed both perennial and southern migration (and all variations) but can't seem to find once is enough. I bushwhacked through the woods fom the bottom of perennial (left and up). I found orange markers but the approach was terrible and retreated for lack of tree trimming equipment. Can anyone give me some beta on how to get to once is enough, or any other routes that might already be established? Jun 22, 2013
bradley white   Bend
The routes I submitted here are for historical reference and quality mysterious. My judgment isn't off. I do agree the routes not done should not be classics. When it comes to king of the hill, all the big hills on Huntington got climbed by the mid 1980's and the now traveled lines intersect with these older routes, some before I explored the ledges obviously. I didn't name any climbs here then. Jun 21, 2013
Ok so I've climbed both perennial and southern migration (and all variations) but can't seem to find once is enough. I bushwhacked through the woods fom the bottom of perennial (left and up). I found orange markers but the approach was terrible and retreated for lack of tree trimming equipment. Can anyone give me some beta on how to get to once is enough, or any other routes that might already be established?

Both routes are great and definitely worth doing. I'd say 2-3 stars easy. Sep 19, 2012
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Ryan,

I agree that Mt Huntington is a great place to climb. I've climbed most of the routes there. Some a few times. Southern Migration, Perennial and even Once is Enough are fun and worth doing. My point is that the MP database assigned "named" and "no name" as "classics." According to MP no one seems to climb these routes and according to the description "no name" has "no pro for the first two pitches" and the "unamed" descent is "ridiculously dangerous." They don't sound like they deserve classic status to me. I think it is a problem with how MP handles routes that have only one person who comments on them which is the person who input the route. Of course the FA may think his route is great but if no one else comments it can get as many stars as he wants despite its actual quality. A consensus of one is not a consensus.

Brian Aug 22, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Brian, Mountain Project general consensus is what determines the quality of the route. After climbing a route, anyone is entitled to vote, and the overall average is what is shown. As far as adventure climbing goes, this cliff is prime. It has a nice approach which through the super effort of the trail makers is now a very enjoyable jaunt through the woods instead of a wicked bushwhack through short dense pines. The pitches are short, but not straight forward and sometimes require a bit of meandering about making for some interesting route-finding. As far as ambience goes, climbing here at peak foliage gives a beautiful perspective of the central mountain region of NH. It may not have any classics as far as modern standard may entitle, but the cliff's uniqueness grants it a special place in NH climbing history even if it is one of the more newly developed features. I give Southern Migration 3 stars. Were someone to look at the mountain and aim for the money route, this is probably the one. Oct 10, 2011
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Who determines classics? I can't believe that a couple of X and R rated obscure routes that no one does are classics and Southern Migration (arguably the best route on the cliff) is not.

There is some new route development going on to the left of Once is Enough at the bottom of the cliff. There was a line of bolts with some webbing hanging when I was there last year. Aug 28, 2011
I climbed up here about 2 years ago or so and there was another good route that went at 10d and an undfinshed route farther to the left side (west) that was solid 5.10 and looked like it mellowed afterwards. Any clues folks...... Sep 6, 2009

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