Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague - July 21/2014
Page Views: 2,147 total · 37/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jul 21, 2014
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A 75 foot fingers to hands crack running straight up the wall. - Start just to the left, off a nice flat starting stone and head up to a single bolt. Layback up until you can get a nice flat edge right of the crack and begin plugging gear. The crack gradually widens to great hand jamming, ending at a good horizontal jug for clipping the anchor. Conservatively two and a half stars in my book.

Location

This is up on the Beanstalk Wall, the second tier of cliff to the left of the big green gully, above the Pre-Marital Wall. To get to it continue left a minute past the prominent arete of BigFoot to get to the basalt scree fan from the gully. Angle up left across the mouth of the gully (not continuing up it) to find a path that continues leading up and left above the Premarital Wall. In a few minutes the path brings you up to the middle of the Beanstalk Wall, directly below a 2 pitch 'Y' crack (Squeeze Box). Head left maybe 80 feet and you will see the obvious straight up crack with a single bolt at the start.

Protection

med nuts (a few off-sets are nice), a set of cams to #3, doubles of the .75 to 2. If you have off-set cams in those sizes bring them along for the short flared section, but they are not critical. Double fat glue-in eyebolt anchor with ramshorns. Tape highly recommended for the back of your hands if you want to keep them pretty.

Photos

Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.9+
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.9+
One of the best cracks at the grade I've ever done. Aug 4, 2014
Rob Albert
  5.9
Rob Albert  
  5.9
I agree Tom. Mark is modest about it, but it is an amazing climb. Sep 8, 2014
mikeinvt
  5.9+
mikeinvt  
  5.9+
Agreed. Better than any of the 5.9 cracks at Cathedral which is saying a lot. Glad I was advised to tape up though. Thanks to Mark and co. for all the hard work you've put into this place. Aug 21, 2016
Emmett Lyman
Boston, MA
Emmett Lyman   Boston, MA
Very nice climb. Multiple and varied cruxes throughout with thoughtful movement. Oct 17, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
The anchors now have SS ramshorns and I gave it a quick rundown with a screwdriver and brush to get some new leaves and moss out so it should be more pleasant. Unfortunately this climb will need regular upkeep since it seems to grow back green at the start quickly. Oct 24, 2017