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The Beanstalk Crack
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 46
votes
Routes in The Northeastern Crags
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Arborist Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Br'er Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't Tell Tom aka Et By a Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Camper T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jack Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Beans T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shapeshifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squeeze Box T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Steady Yeti T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yeti Beats T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 44.03984, -71.39582 |
| FA: | Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague - July 21/2014 |
| Page Views: | 4,997 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on Jul 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A 75 foot fingers to hands crack running straight up the wall. - Start just to the left, off a nice flat starting stone and head up to a single bolt. Layback up until you can get a nice flat edge right of the crack and begin plugging gear. The crack gradually widens to great hand jamming, ending at a good horizontal jug for clipping the anchor. Worth some stars in my book.
Location
This is up on the Beanstalk Wall, the second tier of cliff to the left of the big green gully, above the Pre-Marital Wall. To get to it continue left a minute past the prominent arete of BigFoot to get to the basalt scree fan from the gully. Angle up left across the mouth of the gully (not continuing up it) to find a path that continues leading up and left above the Premarital Wall. In a few minutes the path brings you up to the middle of the Beanstalk Wall, directly below a 2 pitch 'Y' crack (Squeeze Box). Head left maybe 80 feet and you will see the obvious straight up crack with a single bolt at the start.
Protection
med nuts (a few off-sets are nice), a set of cams to #3, doubles of the .75 to 2. If you have off-set cams in those sizes bring them along for the short flared section, but they are not critical. Double fat glue-in eyebolt anchor with ramshorns. (Lift the ramshorns up and clip draws directly into the bolts if people are going to be TRing) Tape highly recommended for the back of your hands if you want to keep them pretty, though, last check, traffic seems to have smoothed the grittiness out a lot.
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