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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague - July 21/2014
Page Views: 1,633 total, 39/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jul 21, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A 75 foot fingers to hands crack running straight up the wall. - Start just to the left, off a nice flat starting stone and head up to a single bolt. Layback up until you can get a nice flat edge right of the crack and begin plugging gear. The crack gradually widens to great hand jamming, ending at a good horizontal jug for clipping the anchor. Conservatively two and a half stars in my book.

Location

This is up on the Beanstalk Wall, the second tier of cliff to the left of the big green gully, above the Pre-Marital Wall. To get to it continue left a minute past the prominent arete of BigFoot to get to the basalt scree fan from the gully. Angle up left across the mouth of the gully (not continuing up it) to find a path that continues leading up and left above the Premarital Wall. In a few minutes the path brings you up to the middle of the Beanstalk Wall, directly below a 2 pitch 'Y' crack (Squeeze Box). Head left maybe 80 feet and you will see the obvious straight up crack with a single bolt at the start.

Protection

med nuts (a few off-sets are nice), a set of cams to #3, doubles of the .75 to 2. If you have off-set cams in those sizes bring them along for the short flared section, but they are not critical. Double fat glue-in eyebolt anchor with ramshorns. Tape highly recommended for the back of your hands if you want to keep them pretty.
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The anchors now have SS ramshorns and I gave it a quick rundown with a screwdriver and brush to get some new leaves and moss out so it should be more pleasant. Unfortunately this climb will need regular upkeep since it seems to grow back green at the start quickly. Oct 24, 2017
Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
Very nice climb. Multiple and varied cruxes throughout with thoughtful movement. Oct 17, 2016
mikeinvt
  5.9+
mikeinvt  
  5.9+
Agreed. Better than any of the 5.9 cracks at Cathedral which is saying a lot. Glad I was advised to tape up though. Thanks to Mark and co. for all the hard work you've put into this place. Aug 21, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.9
Rob Albert  
  5.9
I agree Tom. Mark is modest about it, but it is an amazing climb. Sep 8, 2014
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.9+
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.9+
One of the best cracks at the grade I've ever done. Aug 4, 2014