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Routes in White Owl Face and Laughing Owl Area

Aquarium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Attack of the White Owl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bubbles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Future T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack that Never Was, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Egg Cracker, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Owl Cliff Club, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Change S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Owl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wide Owl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wingless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brady Libby 9/2007
Page Views: 1,326 total · 14/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A tour de force..a wonderful trad line that has been called one of the best crack climbs in NH, though it actually climbs more like a really fun intricate face climb, well protected by small wires and cams. You do have to know how to finger jam though. Good foot work is a must.

The White Owl Face has two classic finger cracks. This is the left hand, harder one, that shares the same start as the sport route that goes out the central flake, "The Owl Cliff Club". Where the sport route heads up and right, move left and follow the crack, making plenty use of the face holds, occasionally straying from the crack proper. You can catch a shake off to the left on a good hold before going for the final pumpy sequence at the top. Brady kept to the challenge of traditionally protecting his ascent and didn't make use of the starting bolts of "The OCC" and others since have kept to that style.

If you are up for it, this is not a route to miss.

Location

Right about where the trail first bumps into the White Owl Face. It shares the same start with the big flake that makes up "The Owl Cliff Club", but follows the thin crack to it's left.

Protection

Up to finger sized gear. Bring small wires and cams. The route shares the same start as a previous sport route, so it is possible to make use of the first few bolts, but most prefer to protect only using available natural gear. The gear is good for the most part, though care should be taken with the first couple pieces as they may not be as good as the rest for taking an outward pull. There is a modern 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.12c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12c
I don't have any decent action shots of this one. Bayard, if Jerry got any good ones from when you were working it, that he is not guarding for his guide book, it would be cool to post a couple. Nov 4, 2010
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
Havn't seem any, when I talk to him next I'll mention it. Nov 5, 2010

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