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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colburn - Sept 29/2014
Page Views: 850 total, 22/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The arching finger crack up the face just left of the sharp arete of Bigfoot - From the base of Bigfoot, step left out onto the ledge around the corner and carefully stick clip the lone bolt and toss the rope down below for your belayer. Climb up good but somewhat friable holds to the left of the bolt and do a move to gain a horizontal. Step left and find the best spot in the horizontal for a .75 Camalot and extend with a shoulder sling. Use some good crimps to gain the next horizontal. Now you are into the finger crack, which heads straight up, then arches right (crux) and passes by a bush. Good footwork and the right jam sequence will help get you through the crux. Continue up the fun laybacks and locker finger jams to the shared anchor of Bigfoot at the top of the arete. Great climbing with lots of positive, mostly comfortable finger locks (no tape needed)

Location

Just left of the obvious sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Shares the same bolted anchor.

Protection

one bolt (stick clip HIGHLY recommended as the rock at the beginning is friable and the landing is terrible.) The rock quality then goes right up and the crack takes nuts well, especially off-sets. Rack to #2 cams, maybe double of the .75. - 60m rope, Bolted anchor with quiclinks
Abandoned User
  5.10+
Abandoned User  
  5.10+
I found this very, very, very similar in grade to Yeti Beats, ie I thought the crux was common to both and the finger crack was more like 5.10b/c ... or I am getting better at climbing finger cracks.

Either Yeti Beats is 5.11b, both routes are 5.11a, or Steady Yeti is 5.10+ ... IDK

gear is awesome so get on it! Oct 13, 2016