357 aka Angel (free version)
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove
|357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2|
|Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13|
|French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0|
|Green Eggs and Cams T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1|
|Jug Monkey T A1-2|
|On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0|
|Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||aided - Aaron Rashaw Steve Dupuis September 27th 1998. freed - Conor Cliffe, Tom Draper, Sept 2013|
|Page Views:||1,490 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
Description"This is a right leaning/overhanging crack that goes from 4 camalots to blue TCUs. We thought this would be a burly free climb for a NH back country hard man/woman.
Steve and I were sleeping in a tent when a Bear started circling. Steve said to me "cover your ears," then fired off a couple warning shots with his 357. All you heard was the Bear thrashing through the woods at high speed." - Aaron Rashaw
edit- Recently Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper freed the route. Here is Conor's description: "This climbs the obvious steep roof crack. Tape up and enjoy some of the best pure crack climbing in the Northeast.
P1: 5.13 Begin up the corner and then traverse back left on good holds by utilizing a horizontal. Pull up to a stance at the base of the crack. Climb the crack to a stance. 70'
P2: 5.12a Continue up the corner and switch back left. Follow the short and burly horizontal (fingers) to pull around the lip. 40'
Gear: Standard rack up to 4 with emphasis on finger sizes.
A few notes: I do plan to update the anchor at the top of P1. I think that I will put it further up the corner to extend the pitch or just put it more to the left on the overhanging wall so that way the rope runs better if someone were to top rope it. The best spot for an anchor for P2 would be right after you pull over the lip so that the belayer could watch the second and if they fell off of the traverse they could just lower them down. The 2nd half of p2 is a little crumby as of right now. It is a good pitch but would be so short and I am not so sure that people would do it. As you know (probably) once you pull over onto the face there is a lot of dirt/lichen up there. I took it to the top and rapped off on the FA.
I have renamed the route 'Angel' and (because I have been accused of sandbagging as of lately) I am going to put the grade at a simple 5.13. I did the route with tom draper." - Conor Cliffe
LocationThis is the left most route in the alcove we did. It is a right leaning/overhanging crack. As one exits the top of the alcove there seemed to be a bunch of dirty crack options for a second pitch.
ProtectionStandard NH rack. The "anchor" bolts are new but were drilled with a standard bit for metric bolts, so are oversized. Do not trust them!.
Note! The anchor bolts at the top of the crack still have not been upgraded from the ones with over-sized holes and should not be trusted. Back them up with good gear.