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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: aided - Aaron Rashaw Steve Dupuis September 27th 1998. freed - Conor Cliffe, Tom Draper, Sept 2013
Page Views: 1,490 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

"This is a right leaning/overhanging crack that goes from 4 camalots to blue TCUs. We thought this would be a burly free climb for a NH back country hard man/woman.

Steve and I were sleeping in a tent when a Bear started circling. Steve said to me "cover your ears," then fired off a couple warning shots with his 357. All you heard was the Bear thrashing through the woods at high speed." - Aaron Rashaw

edit- Recently Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper freed the route. Here is Conor's description: "This climbs the obvious steep roof crack. Tape up and enjoy some of the best pure crack climbing in the Northeast.

P1: 5.13 Begin up the corner and then traverse back left on good holds by utilizing a horizontal. Pull up to a stance at the base of the crack. Climb the crack to a stance. 70'

P2: 5.12a Continue up the corner and switch back left. Follow the short and burly horizontal (fingers) to pull around the lip. 40'

Gear: Standard rack up to 4 with emphasis on finger sizes.

A few notes: I do plan to update the anchor at the top of P1. I think that I will put it further up the corner to extend the pitch or just put it more to the left on the overhanging wall so that way the rope runs better if someone were to top rope it. The best spot for an anchor for P2 would be right after you pull over the lip so that the belayer could watch the second and if they fell off of the traverse they could just lower them down. The 2nd half of p2 is a little crumby as of right now. It is a good pitch but would be so short and I am not so sure that people would do it. As you know (probably) once you pull over onto the face there is a lot of dirt/lichen up there. I took it to the top and rapped off on the FA.

I have renamed the route 'Angel' and (because I have been accused of sandbagging as of lately) I am going to put the grade at a simple 5.13. I did the route with tom draper." - Conor Cliffe

Location

This is the left most route in the alcove we did. It is a right leaning/overhanging crack. As one exits the top of the alcove there seemed to be a bunch of dirty crack options for a second pitch.

Protection

Standard NH rack. The "anchor" bolts are new but were drilled with a standard bit for metric bolts, so are oversized. Do not trust them!.

Note! The anchor bolts at the top of the crack still have not been upgraded from the ones with over-sized holes and should not be trusted. Back them up with good gear.

Photos

Aaron Rashaw  
 
The Western Wing needs some love! Mar 28, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I haven't heard of anyone replacing them yet. This crag still needs a lot of loving in anchor replacement and route rescrubbing, not to mention two projects on the far right end that I have never gotten back to because they are always soaked in the spring so I get fixated elsewhere. Maybe this year! Feb 24, 2017
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Any updates on the anchor situation? Feb 24, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks for the description Conor. I added it to Aaron's Oct 9, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
This just got freed this Sunday by Conor Cliffe on his fifth try. He thought it was about 13b. Hopefully he will post up more information here as a note or send me a message and I can integrate it into the description. He was belaying his partner up when I swung by to check if a project was dry and they were aiming to head over the top to another anchor for getting down while I was leaving. A big congratulations are in order! Conner, if you see this, Please send me a message or a comment here describing the freed version of ascent, gear etc, and I will integrate it into Aaron's description.

Note! The anchor bolts at the top of the crack still have not been upgraded from the ones with over-sized holes and should not be trusted. Back them up with good gear. Hopefully somebody will replace these things soon (in a better location too) and finish scrubbing the route up. It is a classic well worth it. Sep 19, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think it was an oops moment.
I wonder how many metric Petzl bolts are placed in the states using non-metric bits. I bet a scary number. Mar 13, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Proves again, just 'cause you have a drill doesn't mean you know shit.

I really wish that potential f/a folks would at least, maybe do one route with someone who knows something Mar 13, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The more recent attempt at an anchor should be replaced. Judging by a few stashed extra bolts and talking, it looks like a standard sized bit was used for metric bolts. That may look "close enough", but over-sized holes severely weakens the pullout strength of the anchors. They should probably go 20 feet higher too, at the top of the Alcove, though the initial crack ends at a stance where they are currently. Mar 13, 2013
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Hard to believe you can't find a partner, there is a lot of untouched granite out there. Have fun on your adventures! Aug 4, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
No. I don't think anybody has touched it since Seth checked it out. I haven't been able to get out there as much as I wished this year and it is hard to find competent and adventurous new-routers to come along with any regularity. It looks like it needs a fair amount of cleaning to be in the prime condition it deserves and it is so steep and leaning that it's kind of difficult and slow going by myself. Aug 2, 2012
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Anyone bag this thing yet? Pics? Aug 1, 2012
seth c  
The bolts already have one quick link on each nut so all you would need is two half inch hangers and two more quick links. The climbing is hard very sustained and painful. The line is so beautiful though that you forget how much it hurts and how bad the approach to get there is. Sep 1, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I have a couple hangers I can put on them next time I'm out there. Are they set up so two quicklinks on each hanger will work well? I'm trying to get away from sling anchors out there. How did the climbing go? Aug 28, 2011
seth c  
The anchor has been updated to Two bolts with wire nuts for hangers. The pins pulled out by hand quite easily. If you go to try this bring two hangers for half inch bolts and maybe some new webbing or cord. Aug 28, 2011
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Any picture of the route I listed as The Endurance? I think that would be a good candidate for freeing. May 10, 2010
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Yup. Killer! No problems with adding bomber anchors, I'm all for it. Hope you guys free out this stuff! May 10, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Is this it?


If it is, would you mind if the anchor is upgraded to 2 bolts and rings. I think they are safer and less visually obtrusive than pins and slings. I would really like to try to free this May 10, 2010