Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA -Jamal Lee Elkin 10/2/01 clean aid, FFA 9/19/2010 Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague
Page Views: 5,306 total · 51/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a super classic, beautiful 200 foot finger and hand crack that becomes a line of pockets in the middle.
It was first aid soloed by Jamal in one rope stretching push, and with the later addition of bolted anchors and 3 protection bolts for the second pitch has since become a popular free climb. Any aspiring hardperson trad leader should make the effort to get them selves out to try it. It is a NH classic, one of the plums that Green's has to offer.

Take care protecting the bottom section, where the technical crux is, getting a semi blind small cam placement in the best spot. If you take your time getting this, and maybe down climb to get a better look, you should be fine. Do tape well, hands and fingers. After the short crux you get a no hands rest standing atop a big flake. If you are crafty, you can get some good gear in above, tie yourself off and lower a bite and haul up the rest of your rack. From the flake continue up the pumpy but well protectable finger and hand crack to a bolted belay.

After the first belay, you will ascend a short bulging corner to gain a cruxy, bolt protected pocket section, and then cruiser crack in corner to a nice rest on a big round flake to contemplate the puzzling finish run to the top.

After further cleaning and inspection, Dima found an offset cam could be used in lieu of the last bolt. A green cam could be placed in a pocket in exchange for the lower bolt also, but it would be in a handhold and would run more risk of the rope jamming. Certainly the route could be done by a stronger party as a single pitch avoiding the bolts if they wished. That would be a nice way to do it. If you do belay in the middle I suggest clipping the first bolt though to preclude a high fall factor fall onto the belay. We have decided to leave all the bolts for the time being, as all others who have been on the route since have suggested that (most people don't have offset cams), but once you have climbed it, let us know how you feel.

Location

about in the middle of the Main Wall, to the left of the Ginsu Flake.

Protection

Trad and a few bolts on the second pitch. Bring stoppers and cams from small to #3 Camalot, with multiples of the smaller sizes. Save a #.4 gray, Camalot for your last piece on the second pitch. Anchors are bolted with quicklinks. 1-60 meter rope will get you to the ground with 2 rappels. There is a semi-blind small cam placement protecting the bottom crux. Take your time getting it right.
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
What's the pro like for the pendulum over to Green Thumb? Jun 14, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Go off the bolted anchor at the top of Greenpeace or good nuts and cams below. Eventually there may be a free line that would run up to the base of the crack from the first belay of Greenpeace and continue into Green Thumb that will require a few bolts and a good reach. Jun 14, 2010
S. Neoh  
Mark, are congratulations in order? You gave a grade of 11+ with the Beta photo. Did you free the route? Aug 16, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Not yet..one hanged it. I took a few people out for the tour the last couple weekends and we got on the first pitch. Hard 11 seemed to be the consensus and 4 stars out of 3. We didn't have much time for multiple tries as we were checking out the whole cliff. I want to clean the first pitch a little more and I stayed out Sunday and started on the second pitch. It was nice to finally get a group of friends out there and have them all psyched for the place. A fair amount of drooling was going on. Aug 16, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Nice, I have a brit and a bachelor party I'm trying to move around so I can play again on Sat. Todd mentioned the OC? Thanks for showing us around. Pumped to get back out and make it happen! Aug 17, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Free at last. After having Dima patiently belay me as I climbed up and down the crux about 8 times on my lead attempt, complaining about slimy holds and feeling like I was climbing with a hundred pound pack on my back, I handed over the sharp end to him and he fired it off with me seconding. Congrats are in order for a fine lead. Sep 21, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Nice work on the free ascents to you both! Sep 21, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Thanks. Dima is climbing very strong. As a warm up he flashed the first pitch on TR of a possible 12 project of mine before I even cleaned the thing. I think I need to put rocks in his chalkbag. Sep 21, 2010
Dima Sh
  5.11+
Dima Sh  
  5.11+
I think this is one of the best (if not the best) crack climb in New England. Many thanks to people discovering Green's and to Mark for re-discovering it, and giving whole new live to the Cliff! Sep 23, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Wow, nice work fellas. I wanna come back East and try this thing RIGHT NOW! I can't think of a single other 200' splitter in New England. Is there even 200' of crack climbing on The Prow? Sep 26, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
The only 200' splitter in NE would be to do Zonkers 3x Sep 28, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Maybe 4 times..... Sep 29, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
11+ might be a sandbag. I just did Screaming Yellow Zonkers 11c and Zonked Out 12a this weekend and Greenpeace is way harder than Zonkers and the crux seemed harder than the one on Zonked to me also. I recommend both the Zonks as fun routes. I really liked them, but have to say I think Greenpeace is better than them both stacked on top of each other : ) Greenpeace is a little more gnarly though, so tape well. Oct 24, 2010
OH SHIT Mark! You just dashed my hopes and dreams. I got totally spanked on Zonkers a few years ago when i tried it. I dont even know how to do a tape glove so i guess i am out for a free lead. Oct 24, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
LOL. No, give it a try. It's not that bad. If we get a few days of dry weather it should be good to go. That spot 25 feet up is always wet, but it doesn't matter, as you reach past it, The bottom section is what is key to be dry. Oct 25, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I always thought that Zonked was pretty solid 12a/b or so. Oct 25, 2010
There's no such thing as a 12a traditional line in NH! Greens Cliff is going to be known for stellar and steep crack (especially Greenpeace) and hard, techy faces. Oct 30, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Heather ? White Eye ? Shadowline ? Women In Love ? Oct 31, 2010
All 5.11+. I was just kidding. The ever so heavy 9+, 10+, 11+..

Heather is very painful. There should be a pain and a potential-for-losing-your finger grade, like Heather and Steaksauce. Oct 31, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
YA Steaksauce- If I could ever get past the second move. Nov 1, 2010
seth c  
Climbed this today. It goes in one pitch quite nicely with almost no rope drag as the route is a beautiful plum line. I was glad that there are bolts at the pocket section as I didn't bring offset cams and a fall without the proper protection would have you smacking off the slab below the corner. Overall one of the best trad lines I have climbed in New Hampshire. Aug 28, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Nice link, Seth. Todd said you looked really solid on it. Was that an onsight? Did a grade of 12a seem about right? You lucked out getting that window of dry. David Powers said it was soaked at the bottom from the rain when he was out some days earlier, and then Irene came along. It's cool people are finally starting to try to free 357 too. Aug 30, 2011
seth c  
It wasn't an onsight I was on the route two weeks before hand. The crux took a couple tries the first time but I thought 11d/12a seemed about right kinda finger size dependent. The crux was still wet when we climbed it last weekend and the climbing above the rest was also wet but the jams are locker. should be heading back out there for Sunday- Monday to work on 357 and maybe try the pitches above Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn.
Sep 1, 2011
Phil Salahari
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Salahari   Holderness, NH
 
I got rained off and only experienced the first pitch, but I have to say this is a really special line for the White Mountains. Greenpeace has the sort of sustained, go-for-broke style more commonly found on the other side of the country, while still somehow keeping with the technical, footwork-intensive climbing of White Mountain granite. I'll add the caveat that I am not the most experienced climber, but this is absolutely my favorite crack climb in the Northeast. I hope to return to finish it up proper very soon! Jun 26, 2017
Nate Vince
Jeffersonville, VT
  5.11d
Nate Vince   Jeffersonville, VT
  5.11d
Great route!!! Got to climb it with Joe Consavage; I onsighted the first pitch but Joe slipped once midway up the first but solidly freed everything else. Second pitch I slipped at the second bolt and then lowered to the anchor to yo-yo back up and managed to get through the leaf filled pockets to onsight the rest of the pitch. Joe followed easily with no falls. Definitely a memorable day in the Whites with best friends. (Before this we managed to do two new FA's on the lower wall.) I like the bolts and midway anchor makes sense too. Good job Mark! Oct 12, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
  5.11c
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
  5.11c
Linking this into one pitch is a fantastic experience and very reasonably protected if you climb it with a double rack to No. 2 and lots of slings - plus it saves you from a hanging belay. Sep 3, 2018