Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA -Jamal Lee Elkin 10/2/01 clean aid, FFA 9/19/2010 Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague
Page Views: 5,920 total · 49/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a super classic, beautiful 200 foot finger and hand crack that becomes a line of pockets in the middle.
It was first aid soloed by Jamal in one rope stretching push, and with the later addition of bolted anchors and 3 protection bolts for the second pitch has since become a popular free climb. Any aspiring hardperson trad leader should make the effort to get them selves out to try it. It is a NH classic, one of the plums that Green's has to offer.

Take care protecting the bottom section, where the technical crux is, getting a semi blind small cam placement in the best spot. If you take your time getting this, and maybe down climb to get a better look, you should be fine. Do tape well, hands and fingers. After the short crux you get a no hands rest standing atop a big flake. If you are crafty, you can get some good gear in above, tie yourself off and lower a bite and haul up the rest of your rack. From the flake continue up the pumpy but well protectable finger and hand crack to a bolted belay.

After the first belay, you will ascend a short bulging corner to gain a cruxy, bolt protected pocket section, and then cruiser crack in corner to a nice rest on a big round flake to contemplate the puzzling finish run to the top.

After further cleaning and inspection, Dima found an offset cam could be used in lieu of the last bolt. A green cam could be placed in a pocket in exchange for the lower bolt also, but it would be in a handhold and would run more risk of the rope jamming. Certainly the route could be done by a stronger party as a single pitch avoiding the bolts if they wished. That would be a nice way to do it. If you do belay in the middle I suggest clipping the first bolt though to preclude a high fall factor fall onto the belay. We have decided to leave all the bolts for the time being, as all others who have been on the route since have suggested that (most people don't have offset cams), but once you have climbed it, let us know how you feel.

Location

about in the middle of the Main Wall, to the left of the Ginsu Flake.

Protection

Trad and a few bolts on the second pitch. Bring stoppers and cams from small to #3 Camalot, with multiples of the smaller sizes. Save a #.4 gray, Camalot for your last piece on the second pitch. Anchors are bolted with quicklinks. 1-60 meter rope will get you to the ground with 2 rappels. There is a semi-blind small cam placement protecting the bottom crux. Take your time getting it right.

Photos