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Routes in The Alaskan Wall

Alaskan Slab, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lonesome Owl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Owling Good Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Owls of Laughter (working name) - open project T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ruffled Feathers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 1,117 total, 14/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Mar 30, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Yes, it's a slab, but what a good slab, and it has layback crack climbing, a pocketed section and a nice corner to finish. Even if you are not normally into slabs, I recommend you try this one. From the starting stone, head up the steep slab and angle left past a few bolts as it gradually gets steeper and more difficult. The well protected crux involves delicate balancy footwork and opposing handholds to get you up to a ramp with easier moves up a fading layback crack. This takes you up to a steep tricky pocketed section and the final fun corner. Classic!

Location

From where the approach trail meets the cliff, head right a couple hundred feet, under a low wall and up the trail towards the White Owl Face. At the height of land just before reaching the face, head back left on the big vegetated ledge about 30 feet. The route starts up the slab about 20 left of the rounded arete of Lonesome Owl. Look for a nice flat stone at the base.

Protection

All bolt protected, with a two bolt anchor..well protected by whitehorse standards. If you don't feel up to the lead, you can easely stick clip up with a longish stick or bring some cams up while doing Loneseome Owl and traverse the horizontal crack that runs between the two anchors.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice job, Dave! Slabmaster! I wish I had been able to go out with you to give you the tour. Let me know next time you think you will be heading out that way. Did you try any of the others, and how was it finding your way in? I expect a full trip report on NEClimbs if you are up for it. Jul 3, 2011
David Powers  
 
This route was the sole reason i went to Owl's and i was not disappointed. Fantastic pitch! I was able to onsite it and did use a stick clip for the first bolt. I dont think there is a move on it harder than .11c but it is damn sustained and every move as hard as the last for most of the first half of the route. I think the grade should stay .12a because it makes me feel good about my climbing abilities.

"What is the 5.10+ slab route right in this zone called? Maybe to the right of the the AK slab?? It goes right off the the middle of the ledge."

I did not notice another route between Alaskan Slab and Lonesome Owl. Jul 2, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
If it is not Lonesome Owl, which roughly goes up the slabby arete to finish up low angle face climbing, it must be something new. I had been working on a line between the two last year on TR, but never bolted it, as I was seeing if I could punch through the overlap (hard 12 or maybe harder)and wasn't sure how I wanted the bolts. I was thinking that anchors at the overlap would be nice and about that grade. Maybe somebody got to it first. If it is something new, I am guessing Glenn Cilley might know about it.

Last I was there, going left from the corner, there were only two fully bolted routes on the slab, Lonesome Owl, then The Alaskan Sab.

Update 2016 - I did end up bolting the line between the Alaskan Slab and Lonesome Owl. It seemed about 11a to me. No name yet Jun 17, 2011
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
What is the 5.10+ slab route right in this zone called? Maybe to the right of the the AK slab?? It goes right off the the middle of the ledge. Jun 17, 2011
Maybe closer to 12b, I flashed it on a toprope but it is thin. Mar 31, 2011