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Routes in White Owl Face and Laughing Owl Area

Aquarium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Attack of the White Owl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bubbles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Future T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack that Never Was, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Egg Cracker, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Owl Cliff Club, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Change S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Owl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wide Owl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wingless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Impressive, very thin face climbing up the middle of the shear White Owl Face. It is the bolted line just right of The Owl Cliff Club. From the ground it looks like there are no holds. Though it is a bit painful, being so thin, it is a very good route. It requires stamina, good beta and clear eyes so you can see the microscopic foot holds. A bit of a reach wouldn't hurt either, though a 5 foot tall climber has done all the moves, so no excuses.

Ward graded this 13b when he did it, but it has not had a successful 2nd ascent yet, even TR, so that grade may be a bit sandbag. It felt as hard or harder than Dark Star at Rumney to me, with smaller holds though it is not quite as steep.

Wear your best edging shoes.

Location

Straight up the middle of the White Owl Face, to the right of the flake of Owl Cliff Club

Protection

sport, bolts to an anchor shared with Owl Cliff Club. Stick clip the high first bolt or use a couple of cams in the horizontal.

Photos

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I didn't stick-clip, but used a couple of cams in the horizontal before the first bolt. Apr 6, 2011