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Routes in The 5.10 Wall

Dirty Handshake, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gap Abides, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hooters Arete S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mr. Owl S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wize Owl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Woodland Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Elevation: 2,800 ft
GPS: 44.043, -71.359 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,923 total · 20/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 18, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

The centerpiece of the right cliff is the 120 foot tall shear 5.10 Wall, situated above the slabs, with a large wooded ledge between. The name is a misnomer since what appears to be a nice collection of 5.10 face climbs turns out to be a bunch of fiercely technical and sustained climbing that usually checks in at 5.12 or above. The joke on the new routers passed for many years into the tradition of sandbagging Owls route grades by a couple numbers. If you like techy steep face climbing, this is the wall for you. If you like hard technical, crimpy face climbing, some of the lines here rate with the best of their kind in the region.

The main wall faces SSE, so gets blasted by morning and midday sun, making it a great destination for dry Fall days

In the middle of the face is a large flake that will probably be reduced if a climb ever goes up next to it. All the established climbs are to the left of this flake to Hooters Arete and the giant corner of Wize Owl. There is one quality route further left Dragonfly Yoga, approached by carefully scrambling across the death slab. The right side of the wall is bound by a huge loose and often wet gully and a big buttress. To each side of the gully is great potential, but it will require some dedicated trundling.

Getting There

See the descriptions under the Owl's Cliff and Rightt Wall. From the toe of the Contact Wall, scramble towards the right up the big steep gully to get to a steep, tree covered ledge, with an expanse of slab below. The smooth vertical 120 foot tall wall above is the 5.10 Wall.

6 Total Climbs

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