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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 2,748 ft
GPS: 44.034, -71.402 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,051 total, 33/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 8, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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To the left of the Main Wall, past 2 slabs is an east facing, steep section of cliff approximately 250 feet tall, that angles down the hill. This area is notable for the steep, featured yellow alcove. Around the toe, to the left is a large area (The Western Wing)of mostly undeveloped rock that looks to hold more potential. There are a number of dramatic and steep lines at the Alcove. All the routes here have been explored and put up using some aid, but most look worthy of attempting to free. This is an obvious spot for new-routers looking for quality, but it will require quite a lot of work to do it well, logistically, trundling and cleaning. There is great potential, but this is generally not a good spot for a novice new-router.

Getting There

To approach the Alcove first get yourself to the Main Wall. Taking the high trail along the ridge above the NE Crags will save you 10-15 min and some up and down. Once at the Main Wall, head left, past the great Arch and near the base of the route House Made of Dawn look for a cairn and trail leading out from the cliff. Almost immediately it splits. Take the left branch (right goes up to the left side of the Main Wall) traversing the hill, angling up between two intervening slabs to reach the upper end of the Alcove. It is about a 10 minute hike from the Main Wall.

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Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Mark, that would be great. I'm sure Todd would be in as well. He and I leave for the Valley in a few weeks but I'd be pumped to get out before we go for a tour. And I'd be happy to go anytime after I get back. Sounds like a good summer project! May 11, 2010
We used to go in from the Kanc somewhere between the Kancamagus overlook and Sabbaday Falls heading North and East. There was an immediate stream crossing that was easy then you basically linked clear cuts until below the West Slabs. Seemed like we had it pretty wired. I have an email in to Steve Dupuis for more exact details. May 10, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I first went in w/o a ride and it took 4 hours from BNR. Watch out for bugs- they ate Jim Dunn ! May 10, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Edit- 2016 It is probably an approximately 1.5 hr hike from the car to the Alcove via the Main Wall using the approach from Sawyer Pond Trail, a little more with a big load. No bikes used the new way in. May 10, 2010
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Looks sick, I'll be out there for sure. Mark, do I need the bike for the trip out? Or will you show me the way in.
-Jon May 10, 2010
Steve Dupuis did some lines with John Sykes out here but I don't have info on them. May 10, 2010

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