All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Greens Cliff

The Western Wing & Alcove Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

L › R R › L A › Z

	357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
	Cougar Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
	French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
	Green Eggs and Cams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Happy Anniversary T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jug Monkey T A1-2
	Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
	Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	2,748 ft
GPS:	44.0338, -71.4019 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	13,065 total · 83/month
Shared By:	M Sprague on May 8, 2010
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

Description

To the left of the Main Wall, past 2 slabs is an east facing, steep section of cliff mostly one pitch to up to 250 feet tall, that angles down the hill. This area is notable for the steep, featured yellow Alcove, home to the legendary 357, a steeply overhanging crack, now freed as Angel at 13a/b. Another must do further up the hill is Green Eggs and Cams 11d. Around the toe of the Western Wing , to the left, are a few nice 5.10 cracks (currently need cleaning and anchor upgrades) and a large area of mostly undeveloped rock that may hold more potential.

There are a number of dramatic and steep lines in and around the Alcove. Many of the routes here had first been established as aid climbs, but are getting freed. This is an obvious spot for new-routers looking for quality, but it will require quite a lot of work to do it well, logistically, trundling loose blocks and cleaning. There is quite a lot of crumbly rotten rock mixed in with the good. There is great potential, but this is generally not a good spot for a novice new-router as the work to do a good job and bring out the full potential can be daunting. Put the work in and you may find a gem though.

Getting There

To approach the Alcove first get yourself to the Main Wall. Taking the high trail along the ridge above the NE Crags will save you 10-15 min and some up and down. Once at the Main Wall, head left, past the great Arch and near the base of the route House Made of Dawn look for a cairn and trail leading out from the cliff, making a rising traverse of the hillside. (near the start, don't get sucked right directly up the hill, the old way up to the left side of the Main Wall) Keep traversing the hill, angling up between two intervening slabs to reach the cliff between the Alcove down left and the upper buttress where Green Eggs is above to the right It is about a 10 minute hike from the Main Wall.