Elevation: 2,748 ft
GPS: 44.034, -71.402 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,986 total · 38/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 8, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

To the left of the Main Wall, past 2 slabs is an east facing, steep section of cliff approximately 250 feet tall, that angles down the hill. This area is notable for the steep, featured yellow alcove. Around the toe, to the left is a large area (The Western Wing)of mostly undeveloped rock that looks to hold more potential. There are a number of dramatic and steep lines at the Alcove. All the routes here have been explored and put up using some aid, but most look worthy of attempting to free. This is an obvious spot for new-routers looking for quality, but it will require quite a lot of work to do it well, logistically, trundling and cleaning. There is great potential, but this is generally not a good spot for a novice new-router.

Getting There

To approach the Alcove first get yourself to the Main Wall. Taking the high trail along the ridge above the NE Crags will save you 10-15 min and some up and down. Once at the Main Wall, head left, past the great Arch and near the base of the route House Made of Dawn look for a cairn and trail leading out from the cliff. Almost immediately it splits. Take the left branch (right goes up to the left side of the Main Wall) traversing the hill, angling up between two intervening slabs to reach the upper end of the Alcove. It is about a 10 minute hike from the Main Wall.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: The Western Wing & Alcove Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Western Wing & Alcove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C0
 3
Green Eggs and Cams
Trad, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Green Eggs and Cams
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C0 Trad, Aid
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Photos

Steve Dupuis did some lines with John Sykes out here but I don't have info on them. May 10, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Looks sick, I'll be out there for sure. Mark, do I need the bike for the trip out? Or will you show me the way in.
-Jon May 10, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Edit- 2016 It is probably an approximately 1.5 hr hike from the car to the Alcove via the Main Wall using the approach from Sawyer Pond Trail, a little more with a big load. No bikes used the new way in. May 10, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I first went in w/o a ride and it took 4 hours from BNR. Watch out for bugs- they ate Jim Dunn ! May 10, 2010
We used to go in from the Kanc somewhere between the Kancamagus overlook and Sabbaday Falls heading North and East. There was an immediate stream crossing that was easy then you basically linked clear cuts until below the West Slabs. Seemed like we had it pretty wired. I have an email in to Steve Dupuis for more exact details. May 10, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Mark, that would be great. I'm sure Todd would be in as well. He and I leave for the Valley in a few weeks but I'd be pumped to get out before we go for a tour. And I'd be happy to go anytime after I get back. Sounds like a good summer project! May 11, 2010
I'd like to check out Angel on the West wing Crag... Looking for beta. Is anybody interested to check it out? How's the approah these days? Easy enough to find? Can Promaster/Sprinter make the drive on the dirt road? May 7, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Peewee, I didn't get over to the Alcove last year, so I don't know how clear the trail is from the main wall, but I would imagine it is followable. Angel has not had its unsafe anchor bolts replaced yet, so I would strongly recommend you don't get on it yet unless you have the means to replace them.
Normally Sawyer River Rd is very passable for my low profile car, keeping an eye for stray holes and rocks. Unfortunately this season is kind of screwed for Greens as the big washout of Sawyer River Rd from the storm last Fall has not been repaired yet, so the road is closed(4 miles extra hike in and out!). A friend called the ranger's office recently and her report was that opening the road is low priority so it will be a while. I had hoped to get over to the Alcove this year to replace some anchors with SS glue-ins, but I also have a huge to do list and it is not a quick hit logistically. I'll try to remember to send you a note once the gate has reopened, and maybe we can work on getting it fixed up together. May 8, 2018
Thanks M Sprague. I'd be psyched to go there with you and help replacing the anchors. May 8, 2018