Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dunn, Michael Macklin '75
Page Views: 4,400 total · 28/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A classic Jim Dunn crack out in the woods. Jim got around and knew a good line when he saw it. This beautiful crack runs the full height of the cliff, starting with a 9+ pitch of hand jamming up a corner to a big belay ledge. The crack then continues with an angling wide section to a pod where you can get a stance. A few chimney moves gets you back into finger and hand jamming. When you get to the pine tree, step out left to the clean crack that leads to the bolted anchor. Taping for the hand jams recommended.

The start of Stewart's Crack
Originally done as three pitches using pins on the ledge and a now deceased tree for a belay, the belays are now bolted. A single 60m will get you down in 2 drops. Gear for the first pitch is excellent, especially if you have a finger sized off-set cam for the first piece. The wide section of the second pitch requires some care and a #5 Camalot. Oh, and the second pitch might feel like a wicked sandbag at it's traditional 9+ grade unless you have huge mitts.

Named for Stewart Green, James' friend . Get It ?

Location

Right of center - From below the big roofs on the right side of the cliff, walk to the climber's left under the very steep slab of the porcelain wall section until you see the classic hand crack in a left facing stem corner.

Protection

Pitch 1 - Cams up to #3 Camalot size, doubles of the red and gold (you could use 3 golds if you have them). A finger tip sized off-set cam makes a great first piece, otherwise you have to boulder up a little more to put a regular one in. For pitch 2, add a #4 and 5 Camalot (used early on) and a light set of nuts. The belays are bolted (1/2" SS Rawl 5 pc with quicklinks) rap stations. A single 60m gets you down with a lower and rap.

Photos