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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dunn, Michael Macklin '75
Page Views: 2,646 total · 23/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

A classic Jim Dunn crack out in the woods. Jim got around and knew a good line when he saw it. This beautiful crack runs the full height of the cliff, starting with a 9+ pitch of hand jamming up a corner to a big belay ledge. The crack then continues with an angling wide section to a pod where you can get a stance. A few chimney moves gets you back into finger and hand jamming. When you get to the pine tree, step out left to the clean crack that leads to the bolted anchor. Taping for the hand jams recommended.


Originally done as three pitches using pins on the ledge and a now deceased tree for a belay, the belays are now bolted. A single 60m will get you down in 2 drops. Gear for the first pitch is excellent, especially if you have a finger sized off-set cam for the first piece. The wide section of the second pitch requires some care and a #5 Camalot. Oh, and the second pitch might feel like a wicked sandbag at it's traditional 9+ grade unless you have huge mitts.

Named for Stewart Green, James' friend . Get It ?

Location

Right of center - From below the big roofs on the right side of the cliff, walk to the climber's left under the very steep slab of the porcelain wall section until you see the classic hand crack in a left facing stem corner.

Protection

Pitch 1 - Cams up to #3 Camalot size, doubles of the red and gold (you could use 3 golds if you have them). A finger tip sized off-set cam makes a great first piece, otherwise you have to boulder up a little more to put a regular one in. For pitch 2, add a #4 and 5 Camalot and a light set of nuts. The belays are bolted (1/2" SS Rawl 5 pc with quicklinks) rap stations. A single 60m gets you down with a lower and rap.
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
The new second pitch anchor is now fully in (two 1/2 SS Rawls with fat quicklinks). They were placed just below the lip so the vegetation at the top didn't have to be disturbed. I think Jim may have finished up the right hand corner at the top originally, but I set the anchors up for and cleaned the left hand crack finish. It is good and a little steeper and I didn't want to clean out the top corner as it would kill the big bonsaied pine. So, the route is now two pitches and can be done with a single 60m. Get out and get on it before it fills back up with vegetation! Aug 18, 2012
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.9+
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.9+
The recently cleaned second pitch is awesome. I found it harder than the first. Looking at the before picture of Amy's the effort to clean this pitch was huge and totally worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!! May 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
I led this the past weekend (first pitch) and it has washed up from the rain after the scrub very nicely. It was very fun, much better than when it still had some loose dirt in it. Great handjamming and a little laybacking. Tape on the back of the hands is a good idea. Bring an extra gold Camalot (2.5?) or two. I had to run it out some with only one. I was glad I had brought a few of my offset cams too, but you would be fine without them as long as you had multiples of the red and gold. A finger tip sized offset cam works great for your first piece. I'm bumping this up to three stars now that it is clean. The first pitch is also longer than it looks..not much rope left when rapping with a 60 meter. The first pitch is G rated if you have enough cams. Sep 13, 2010
amy colburn  
 
climbed it again last weekend and the first pitch has dried out quite nicely. Oct 12, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
i bet the bears could clean pitch 2 ! I can't believe how much has grown in there since i did this route. Of course it has been a while (17 years). I'm pretty sure the dead tree is the one we rapped off ! Jul 19, 2010
amy colburn  
 
Pitch one is clean now.

Pitch two has great potential for vertical blueberry picking.
Jul 18, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"upper pitches look like turf tugging dirt fests"... LOL! The start pitch looks great. I can't wait to check it out. Jul 14, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
I had a chat with Jimmy Dunn and he was in agreement with replacing the old pin/webbing/cord anchors with new bolted ones so I have placed a new 2 bolt anchor at the 1st pitch belay ledge with quicklinks for rapping off and cut out the detritus. We left the pins in for historical purposes. The idea was to also do the second pitch, but it is horrendously dirty so I am putting the effort into other routes first..Maybe later. Amy C has taken on the task of giving the first pitch a sweep and is almost done. I TRed it while it was still dirty and can't wait to lead it. It is really nice.

If the top was cleaned, with modern length ropes, I think this would be a 2 pitch route. Jul 2, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
The starting pitch looks pretty clean, but from the ground the upper parts look clogged with dirt and greenery. Also, I didn't see any trees on the route worthy of rapping off. To my mind the route looks like it could use a cleaning and maybe a couple discrete rap anchors. The hike off is classic heinous thick spruce scruff and windfall, and the route ends near the middle point of a wide cliff. GPS coordinates: N44.03604 W71.39926 Apr 26, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Ya Ed and I discussed the name a few times, thought it was pretty good. Jan 1, 2010
yup, climbed it in 2007 with a buddy when i was working for the appalachian mating club, we climbed two pitches from hands to fists and left nuts to rap, sweet route, i wish it was a bit cleaner (nasty as hell) but then it would be more popular, the approach was easier than I thought coming from sawyer pond. Strandman, did you quote websters second edition there with "stewart green-get it?". Classic. Oct 30, 2009

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