5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 35 votes
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Dunn, Michael Macklin '75|
|Page Views:||5,355 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||john strand on Jun 24, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
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A classic Jim Dunn crack out in the woods. Jim got around and knew a good line when he saw it. This beautiful crack runs the full height of the cliff, starting with a 9+ pitch of hand jamming up a corner to a big belay ledge. The crack then continues with an angling wide section to a pod where you can get a stance. A few chimney moves gets you back into finger and hand jamming. When you get to the pine tree, step out left to the clean crack that leads to the bolted anchor. Taping for the hand jams recommended.
Originally done as three pitches using pins on the ledge and a now deceased tree for a belay, the belays are now bolted. A single 60m will get you down in 2 drops. Gear for the first pitch is excellent, especially if you have a finger sized off-set cam for the first piece. The wide section of the second pitch requires some care and a #5 Camalot early on. Oh, and the second pitch might feel like a wicked sandbag at it's traditional 9+ grade unless you have huge mitts.
Named for Stewart Green, James' friend . Get It ?
Pitch 1 - Cams up to #3 Camalot size, doubles of the red and gold (you could use 3 golds if you have them). A finger tip sized off-set cam makes a great first piece, otherwise you have to boulder up a little more to put a regular one in. For pitch 2, add a #4 and 5 Camalot (used early on) and a light set of nuts. The belays are bolted (1/2" SS Rawl 5 pc with quicklinks) rap stations. A single 60m gets you down with a lower and rap.