The Main Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.036, -71.4 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||14,367 total · 151/month|
|Shared By:||M Sprague on May 6, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionThe Main Wall of Greens is an impressive band of rock running a little over 1/3 of a mile wide and mostly about 250 feet tall. It offers a bounty of climbing of various styles, with some superb cracks, face climbing, steep slab and flake systems.
The approach from Sawyer Pond Trail brings you under the right side of the cliff. A short spur leads to a sort of a featured buttress, a little over 100 feet tall, With a nice cluster of one and two pitch 9s and 10s, Which makes it a good place to start the day.
Moving to the left, as the cliff gets taller, huge blocks have been plucked out from the base of the cliff to create a large ledge with big roofs above. If you hug the cliff you can scramble up via a little notch (about 40' to the left of Global Warming) to the right side of the ledge, where you will find an old fire ring and some good spots to bivy. Otherwise, the main trail stays out from the cliff a bit until it brings you to the left side of the overhangs, near El Dorado. There is currently only one route that goes through the roofs, Fireside Crack, that starts just right of the fire ring.
A few words about camping here: It is less necessary since the new way in makes day trips easy, but it is a great bivy spot with the fire ring, protection of the big roofs above, relatively flat spots to lay your pads and a great view. If you use it please leave it as you found it or better. Keep the place nice, and be very careful if you have a fire to keep it under control so no embers fly out and land below. Remember to hang you food well. Also, dont just piss off the ledge. It is protected from rain and would get nasty smelling in no time. Go out further. Please don't leave trash in the fire ring. There is an iron grate stashed behind the leaning slab by the fire. If you use it to cook, when done please return it to its place, out of sight. Etiquette suggests replacing any wood you found and used in a neat small stack (dead beach wood is best) so if the next person is stuck in the rain they will have something to get warm with. Needless to say, bury your shit and TP well and away from the cliff. When you leave, aside from the fire ring and a small neat stack of wood, it should not look like people have camped there, and stir the ashes around and make damn sure the coals are 100% out. This shouldn't have to be said, but I have found the place abused and it is very discouraging.
Continuing the cliff tour: The roofs continue on for a couple hundred feet, then you drop down off the scree ledge and come to where the cliff is a very steep, sheer slab. I think this is the portion Mike Hartrich referred to as the Porcelain Wall. Above, in steeper second pitch territory are many attractive features, but, so far, the slab has only been cracked by Moldy Bolts, a 12a ground up bolted line that follows a thin seam to a ledge.
The next feature you get to is the obvious line of Stewart's Crack, the first pitch of which follows a great handcrack up a left facing corner to a belay ledge. Moving further left, past a couple jumbley, partial height corners, you will come to the wafer thin Ginsu Flake and the classic 2 pitch vertical crack of Greenpeace. The cliff here is about 250 feet tall and steep, with a further 100 foot+ crown of slab above.
Fifty feet past Greenpeace the Great Arch begins, a left leaning steep two pitch overlapping arch that has not yet had an ascent. If you are looking for Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn, you will find it running up the steep slab to the upper end of the arch. Above is a steep two pitch system of dramatic flakes and corners, with another system, The Muffin Man, 50 feet to the left. The theme of steep slab up to another pitch or two of steeper feature climbing continues leftwards with the classic flake of Green Party.
At this point the base of the cliff begins to rise and the cliff gradually shorten. To get around to the left side of the cliff while avoiding some scrambling, before you get to Green Party, find the path (cairn) that heads out from the cliff like you were heading to the West Wing, but immediately take the right split that heads up the hill and hooks back to the cliff. As you re-approach the cliff, on your right you will see a steep two pitch bolted line Snaking the Drain 12a+ and in front of you the bolted slab start of Im Still Here, leading to a headwall and the hidden pitch above. Just to its left, is an orange (probably green now) right facing corner capped by a roof. The starts of Blurry Eyes and Remember Me are just past the corner.
To get to the top of the left side of the cliff and above the Alcove, continue following the goat path up the narrowing band of trees, with a big slab below you and the diminishing Main Wall above.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season