Elevation: 2,675 ft
GPS: 44.036, -71.4 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,090 total · 386/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 6, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description

The Main Wall of Greens is an impressive band of rock running a little over 1/3 of a mile wide and mostly about 250 feet tall. It offers a bounty of climbing of various styles, with some superb cracks, face climbing, steep slab and flake systems.

The approach from Sawyer Pond Trail brings you under the right side of the cliff. A short spur leads to a sort of a featured buttress, a little over 100 feet tall, with a nice cluster of one and two pitch 9s and 10s, which makes it a good place to start the day.

Moving to the left, as the cliff gets taller, huge blocks have been plucked out from the base of the cliff to create a large ledge with big roofs above. If you hug the cliff you can scramble up via a little notch (about 40' to the left of Global Warming) to the right side of the ledge, where you will find an old fire ring and some good spots to bivy. Otherwise, the main trail stays out from the cliff a bit until it brings you to the left side of the overhangs, near El Dorado. There is currently only one route that goes through the roofs, Fireside Crack, that starts just right of the fire ring.

A few words about camping here: It is less necessary since the new way in makes day trips easy, but it is a great bivy spot with the fire ring, protection of the big roofs above, relatively flat spots to lay your pads and a great view. If you use it please leave it as you found it or better. Keep the place nice, and be very careful if you have a fire to keep it under control so no embers fly out and land below. Remember to hang you food well. Also, don't just piss off the ledge. It is protected from rain and would get nasty smelling in no time. Go out further. Please don't leave trash in the fire ring. There is an iron grate stashed behind the leaning slab by the fire. If you use it to cook, when done please return it to its place, out of sight. Etiquette suggests replacing any wood you found and used in a neat small stack (dead beach wood is best) so if the next person is stuck in the rain they will have something to get warm with. Needless to say, bury your shit and TP well and away from the cliff. When you leave, aside from the fire ring and a small neat stack of wood, it should not look like people have camped there, and stir the ashes around and make damn sure the coals are 100% out. This shouldn't have to be said, but I have found the place abused and it is very discouraging.

Continuing the cliff tour: The roofs continue on for a couple hundred feet, then you drop down off the scree ledge and come to where the cliff is a very steep, sheer slab. I think this is the portion I believe Mike Hartrich referred to as the Porcelain Wall. Above, in steeper second pitch territory are many attractive features, but, so far, the slab has only been cracked by Moldy Bolts, a 12a ground up bolted line that follows a thin seam to a ledge.

The next feature you get to is the obvious line of Stewart's Crack, the first pitch of which follows a great handcrack up a left facing corner to a belay ledge. Moving further left, past a couple jumbley, partial height corners, you will come to the wafer thin Ginsu Flake and the classic 2 pitch vertical crack of Greenpeace. The cliff here is about 250 feet tall and steep, with a further 100 foot+ crown of slab above.

Fifty feet past Greenpeace the huge arch of Arch Duke Dude begins, a large, left leaning,  overlap arch . If you are looking for Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn, you will find it running up the steep slab to the upper end of the arch. Above is a steep two pitch system of dramatic flakes and corners, with another system, The Muffin Man, 50 feet to the left. The theme of steep slab up to another pitch or two of steeper feature climbing continues leftwards with the classic flake of Green Party.

 At this point the base of the cliff begins to rise and the cliff gradually shortens. From Green Party and Trust the Rubber, you get up to the left end by scrambling up the slabby corner up left to another level (careful). The first routes you pass are the 2 pitch sport route Snaking the Drain 12a+ then the mixed I'm Still Here, which both start up a couple bolts of easy slab into a vertical headwall Just to the left, is an orange (probably green now) right facing corner capped by a roof. The starts of Blurry Eyes and Remember Me are just past the corner.

To get to the top of the left side of the cliff and above the Alcove, continue following the goat path up the narrowing band of trees, with a big slab below you and the diminishing Main Wall above.

Getting There

See directions under the main Greens Cliff heading.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Eco-Challenge
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Stewart's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 14
Ginsu Flake
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
First Impressions
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Blurry Eyes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Bull Run
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Nero's Fiddle
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
I'm Still Here
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Dead rat tat
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 19
Green Party
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
House Made of Dawn
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
Jet Set
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
Greenpeace
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Trusting the Rubber
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eco-Challenge
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stewart's Crack
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ginsu Flake
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
First Impressions
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Blurry Eyes
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Bull Run
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nero's Fiddle
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
(I Just Want to Make a) Vol…
 10
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
I'm Still Here
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Dead rat tat
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Green Party
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
House Made of Dawn
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Jet Set
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Greenpeace
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Trusting the Rubber
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Main Wall »

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