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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 2,675 ft
GPS: 44.036, -71.4 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,367 total · 151/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 6, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

Description

The Main Wall of Green’s is an impressive band of rock running a little over 1/3 of a mile wide and mostly about 250 feet tall. It offers a bounty of climbing of various styles, with some superb cracks, face climbing, steep slab and flake systems.

The approach from Sawyer Pond Trail brings you under the right side of the cliff. A short spur leads to a sort of a featured buttress, a little over 100 feet tall, With a nice cluster of one and two pitch 9s and 10s, Which makes it a good place to start the day.

Moving to the left, as the cliff gets taller, huge blocks have been plucked out from the base of the cliff to create a large ledge with big roofs above. If you hug the cliff you can scramble up via a little notch (about 40' to the left of Global Warming) to the right side of the ledge, where you will find an old fire ring and some good spots to bivy. Otherwise, the main trail stays out from the cliff a bit until it brings you to the left side of the overhangs, near El Dorado. There is currently only one route that goes through the roofs, Fireside Crack, that starts just right of the fire ring.

A few words about camping here: It is less necessary since the new way in makes day trips easy, but it is a great bivy spot with the fire ring, protection of the big roofs above, relatively flat spots to lay your pads and a great view. If you use it please leave it as you found it or better. Keep the place nice, and be very careful if you have a fire to keep it under control so no embers fly out and land below. Remember to hang you food well. Also, don’t just piss off the ledge. It is protected from rain and would get nasty smelling in no time. Go out further. Please don't leave trash in the fire ring. There is an iron grate stashed behind the leaning slab by the fire. If you use it to cook, when done please return it to its place, out of sight. Etiquette suggests replacing any wood you found and used in a neat small stack (dead beach wood is best) so if the next person is stuck in the rain they will have something to get warm with. Needless to say, bury your shit and TP well and away from the cliff. When you leave, aside from the fire ring and a small neat stack of wood, it should not look like people have camped there, and stir the ashes around and make damn sure the coals are 100% out. This shouldn't have to be said, but I have found the place abused and it is very discouraging.

Continuing the cliff tour: The roofs continue on for a couple hundred feet, then you drop down off the scree ledge and come to where the cliff is a very steep, sheer slab. I think this is the portion Mike Hartrich referred to as the Porcelain Wall. Above, in steeper second pitch territory are many attractive features, but, so far, the slab has only been cracked by Moldy Bolts, a 12a ground up bolted line that follows a thin seam to a ledge.

The next feature you get to is the obvious line of Stewart's Crack, the first pitch of which follows a great handcrack up a left facing corner to a belay ledge. Moving further left, past a couple jumbley, partial height corners, you will come to the wafer thin Ginsu Flake and the classic 2 pitch vertical crack of Greenpeace. The cliff here is about 250 feet tall and steep, with a further 100 foot+ crown of slab above.
Fifty feet past Greenpeace the Great Arch begins, a left leaning steep two pitch overlapping arch that has not yet had an ascent. If you are looking for Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn, you will find it running up the steep slab to the upper end of the arch. Above is a steep two pitch system of dramatic flakes and corners, with another system, The Muffin Man, 50 feet to the left. The theme of steep slab up to another pitch or two of steeper feature climbing continues leftwards with the classic flake of Green Party.

At this point the base of the cliff begins to rise and the cliff gradually shorten. To get around to the left side of the cliff while avoiding some scrambling, before you get to Green Party, find the path (cairn) that heads out from the cliff like you were heading to the West Wing, but immediately take the right split that heads up the hill and hooks back to the cliff. As you re-approach the cliff, on your right you will see a steep two pitch bolted line Snaking the Drain 12a+ and in front of you the bolted slab start of I’m Still Here, leading to a headwall and the hidden pitch above. Just to it’s left, is an orange (probably green now) right facing corner capped by a roof. The starts of Blurry Eyes and Remember Me are just past the corner.

To get to the top of the left side of the cliff and above the Alcove, continue following the goat path up the narrowing band of trees, with a big slab below you and the diminishing Main Wall above.

Getting There

See directions under the main Greens Cliff heading.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Main Wall

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Bayard,

I really liked your write-up on your Blog. Reminded me of when I was young and bolder. I'm planning on getting out there with a few guys for an overnight weekend, before the season is over. Sep 16, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sam, I guess that is a retort to my comment. To each his own, but I don't see how requiring that people risk smashing themselves on a ledge is necessary to have a good adventure. Was the bolted slab and anchor used to get up there "robbing future generations of adventure"?
There are plenty of opportunities to play in traffic, less beautiful lines to climb. I am not saying it should be bolted up every 2 feet. Have you been out there? I have been very close to where they climbed and some of the big flakes there are like crumbly rubber. The line is dramatic and adventurous without added unnecessary risk. It is just my opinion, but I would be sad if it was relegated to obscurity by it. I don't know what their thoughts are for it post FA, so maybe this is all moot. I wasn't sure how to read the "... for the time being that makes it a scary, dirty nameless 5.11" of Bayard's comment.

I also was interested in a line next to it that I had previously scoped on rappel and began trundling the loose stuff. My intention was to put a bolted anchor in an alcove, but I don't know if their route joined it there, making a possible issue. It is probably better that we discuss it in person at the crag rather than let the internet turn it into a conflict, which it isn't Sep 12, 2013
seems a shame to rob future generations of adventure too. Sep 12, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Sounds like a 'non race" for Black Flies ! SLAB !!! Sep 11, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Congratulations, guys! Nice on-sight ground up and raw! Damn! only 5.11 on those flakes above Black Flies. I should have gotten myself on them earlier:)) I kept putting it off thinking they would be much harder grade wise. I'm a little jealous.

I wish I knew you guys were over there. I was probably just around the corner to the north.

If Ray thought the Endurance was loose, he should have seen it before I put a few days prying crumbly stuff off it. I put off finishing, demoralized by the rock quality. The Alcove definitely has some sections of crappy, rotten rock mixed in with the great stuff. Any plans to clean up the line on the main cliff? Are you going to keep it R rated? Seems a shame for such a fine line, though the ascent is no doubt impressive.

Great write-up, Bayard.

-maybe I will show you the quick way in (abt an hr and a half). By the way, the second pitch directly above House Made of Dawn is an open project if you guys want to get on it. I don't see myself getting back to it right away and would be happy if somebody is able to climb it. You would probably find it very well protected, bolts and gear. Sep 11, 2013
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
I've gone out to Greens a couple of times in the last couple weeks. The first trip out we did the classics, Stewart's, Green Party and Greenpeace. I thought all were exceptional. A treat to go that far back in the woods and to climb on clean rock!

I have always wanted to head up into those features above Black Flies (since a mid-winter ski trip out there 10 yrs ago!) and seeing it again got me more psyched.

Yesterday Ray Rice, Conner The-Brave-Young-Gun and I gave it whack... and it went!

We free climbed two pitches, onsight and ground-up, after traversing in from A House Called Dawn. We took the obvious line of flakes between the corner systems. Belaying on a ledge at the same height as the top of the left hand corner. Both pitches are 5.11 R. The first is fairly straight forward, but the flake and the protection is a bit disconcerting and the second is harder and just plain serious. Conner did a great job not falling off of it.

Don't have a name yet, and its a little dirty.

In summation, for the time being that makes it a scary, dirty nameless 5.11 two hours from the road.

I wrote a little piece about the day if you're interested:
whitemountainrockandice.com…

Ray also free climbed climbed, ground-up, the first pitch of what appears to be The Endurance. He started on a previously cleaned flake system off the ground, and headed straight up into a thin crack, flakes and eventually some kitty litter granite in a small hanging corner. He lowered off a two bolt anchor below the roof and mumbled something about 5.11 and never wanting to go up there again.

We were all smiles and high fives saying goodbye, as my dog and I headed back home first. Sep 8, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
No. 357 is over at the Alcove. The project left of Black Flies is a thing I bolted. mountainproject.com/v/10715… Dave powers and I did the first pitch 5.11 slab House Made of Dawn last year. The second pitch hasn't gone yet. It is probably hard 12+, maybe 13. There are a couple moves I haven't really linked cleanly. It goes though. People are welcome to get on it. It is very good and is well protected with a mix of bolts and gear (a few cams and wires). I was hoping to get Jay Conway or Joe Terravecchia out there to see if they can onsight it this year. Update - The former project is now 'Muffin Man' Mar 13, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Does the Main Wall host 357? Is it listed as "Project" to the left of Black Flies Consume...? Mar 12, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sounds like you were over at the Northeastern Crags. I was exploring over there this weekend and managed to find Ward and Paula Smiths route "Premarital Blisters" that has a few bolts. There is indeed a lot of potential over there, but it looks like more cleaning will be needed than the Main Wall. "Blisters" had been reconquered by the forest. Nov 8, 2010
At one point we went into Green's from Livermore Rd./Sawyer trail I think(the top and back side) and walked the Northeast side of the cliff. We could have been on sub cliffs but there were some nice looking bolted lines established as well as some nice aretes and crack that had mega potential. May 10, 2010

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