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Elevation: 817 ft 249 m
GPS: 44.0545, -71.1668
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 450,459 total · 2,134/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.

As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.

The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.

Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.

The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.

Getting There Suggest change

From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot.
The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress

155 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Whitehorse Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 345
Standard Route
Trad 9 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 168
The Cormier-Magness Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 195
Sliding Board
Trad 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 219
Inferno
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Wave Length
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 191
Hotter Than Hell
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Loose Lips
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Lost Souls
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
The Last Unicorn
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Atlantis
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Tranquility
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Children's Crusade
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Science Friction Wall
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 74
Future Shock
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
The Eliminate
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route 7. The Slabs
 345
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 9 pitches
The Cormier-Magness Route 7. The Slabs
 168
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 8 pitches
Sliding Board 7. The Slabs
 195
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 9 pitches
Inferno 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 219
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Wave Length 7. The Slabs
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Hotter Than Hell 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 191
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Loose Lips 6. Echo Roof
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lost Souls 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
The Last Unicorn 2. S Buttress > Wonder Wall
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Atlantis 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 66
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Tranquility 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Children's Crusade 5. Children's Crusade…
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Science Friction Wall 2. S Buttress > Wonder Wall
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Future Shock 6. Echo Roof
 74
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
The Eliminate 5. Children's Crusade…
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Whitehorse Ledge »

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