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Areas in *Whitehorse Ledge

1. The Cosmic Crag 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
2. South Buttress 27 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
3. Steak Sauce Boulder 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
4. The Gargoyal Buttress 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
5. Children's Crusade Wall 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
6. Echo Roof 21 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
7. The Slabs 30 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 30
8) The Last Wave Slab 4 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Whitehorse Ledge Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.

As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.

The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.

Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.

The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.

Getting There

From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot.
The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress

109 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at *Whitehorse Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Standard Route
Trad 9 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Beginners Route
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The Cormier-Magness Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board
Trad 9 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Holes
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Length
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hotter Than Hell
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seventh Seal
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loose Lips
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost Souls
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Last Unicorn
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atlantis
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ethereal Crack
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock
Trad 2 pitches
Standard Route 7. The Slabs 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 9 pitches
Beginners Route 7. The Slabs 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 10 pitches
The Cormier-Magness Route 7. The Slabs 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 8 pitches
Sliding Board 7. The Slabs 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 9 pitches
Sea of Holes 7. The Slabs 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Inferno 2. S Buttress > Atlantis Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Wave Length 7. The Slabs 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Hotter Than Hell 2. S Buttress > Atlantis Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Seventh Seal 6. Echo Roof 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Loose Lips 6. Echo Roof 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lost Souls 2. S Buttress > Atlantis Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
The Last Unicorn 2. S Buttress > Wonder Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Atlantis 2. S Buttress > Atlantis Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Ethereal Crack 6. Echo Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Future Shock 6. Echo Roof 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in *Whitehorse Ledge »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Will Ryan
New England
Will Ryan   New England
What is the best guidebook for Whitehorse? Jun 5, 2017
We found a piece of gear near the base of Hotter than Hell. Maybe somebody dropped it when racking up or on rappel. PM me with a description if you want it back. Apr 8, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Excellent comment Peter! May 29, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Here's a typical Whitehorse Slabs rack: a few draws, half dozen full-length slings, set of stoppers, a few cams from .5" to 2.5", and Tricams (to blue, handy in the many solution pockets). There's a lot of fixed gear on the popular routes and most of the belays are also fixed. The runouts are substantial (certainly on the easier routes) so go light on the rack---on many pitches 5.7 and below you may only be getting 3-5 pieces per pitch. But don't fear, the slabs are a friendly place and long, skin-grating slides are rare. Also, the walk-off is fast and pleasant and rapping may dump you right on top of other parties---please be considerate. Although it is possible to rap with one 60m rope, it takes a fair bit of cunning, so if you don't know the cliff well and plan to rappel, bring two ropes. May 25, 2012
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
a friend and i want to do a route here and im just wondering what is a Whitehorse rack.Im just curious about how many runners,slings and so on for this climb.nuts or cams.what works best.i have a set of 1-7 nuts Oct 17, 2010
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
went to whitehorse on the 4th of march an the bottom of ethereal crack looked like a war zone. there was a large rock fall sometime this winter. Mar 15, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Today a friend and i did a really fun link up on the slabs taking South buttress of wankers wall 5.8R, to beginners direct 5.6R to a few pitches that dont seem to belong to any route to the right of standard, to the top... it was really fun!

after years on the slabs its fun to just go climb around and see what links up well...
try it sometime...
do you have any fave slab link ups... Jun 2, 2008

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