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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Barber and Cote 1972
Page Views: 12,466 total, 94/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 17, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This one pitch classic follows a beautiful finger and hand crack exiting a triangle shaped hole in the rock. It is one of the best 5.9 finger/hand cracks that you will lay your hands on.

Long move for short people at the start, sustained section in the middle.

FA was done, of course, only on nuts.

Protection

Std Rack
You can set an anchor on the wall on the top ledge, there a little crack for little gear or go behind the block there's a pin.
Sean M
  5.9+
Sean M  
  5.9+
a little strenuous for a 5.9, but great climb, and totally safe. Oct 7, 2017
Steven James
Portland, Maine
 
Steven James   Portland, Maine
 
Really enjoyed this climb. Just did it for the first time today and I can't believe I have been to Cathedral as many times as I have without doing this. I felt like it was easier than Pine Tree which I have climbed several times. Jun 20, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
Regarding the 30 piece of pro alluded to by gblauer, I can attest that yes, that can indeed be done. ;-) Jun 17, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I was inspired by the comments to lead this as my first climb of the day, right out of the car. Alas, it was occupied so I did Bird's Nest first. I found this climb to be fun, well protected and challenging in a spot or two. I agree, it's a great climb for someone breaking into the grade as it protects rather well. I probably could have placed 30 pieces too. Jun 23, 2015
Nate Solnit
Bath, NH
Nate Solnit   Bath, NH
There's a lovely wide fingers type crack right in front of the topout. It sucked up a .5 C4 and a few nuts (no pin). IMHO I wouldn't haul a #4 up this except as training weight. Jul 6, 2014
As of July 2012, there was a fixed nut about 3/4 of the way up.

Super fun, continuous line.

Bolts are gone. Bring an extra #4 to help create a safe anchor around a pin at the back of the block. Rap from the tree near Kiddy Crack. Jul 24, 2012
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
When I did it it was called 5.9+, which everyone knows could be anywhere from 5.9 to 5.11. It was stout for a .9 I thought. I onsighted, and then toproped it again, and was very perplexed as to how I onsighted. I struggled on TR. Great route though! Apr 5, 2011
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
led this thing sopping wet the first time... felt like 5.11 Feb 10, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Hey Nick, The bolts are no longer there because of the wishes of the first ascentionist and the possibility for a fine anchor back by that pin. Standard procedure is to give a top belay or TR off your anchor, and then walk over to the tree rappel to the right. Awesome route tough! May 26, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Classic, I sewed it up just carrying two sets of stoppers. FYI, falcon guide lists bolted anchors but all I found was a old wedge piton to rap off. May 25, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.9
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.9
Much agreed. We had never been to the North End, and decided to swing by on our way to the cars and climb the best "looking" routes without consulting the guidebook. We sure picked a winner! We had a blast climbing this at around 930pm. Jun 15, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i just did this yesterday being my first 5.9 trad lead! WICKED FUN! and i got a #12 nut booty out of it too! but i differ from the others in that i didnt place alot of gear... i think it was cuz i was having so much fun int the locks and jams that every once in a while i was like.... oh s**t i neet to place gear dont i! lol :) great climb! Jun 2, 2009
And "They died laughing" do to the ridiculous amount of gear that you can easily place in this crack. 5.9 doesn't come any safer!! Amazing to see someone outdid me. This was my first 5.9 lead, and I placed 28 pieces, mostly in the middle section. It is very popular, so be respectful and don't siege it as your first 5.9 lead on a Saturday morning....late in the day or mid-week will win you more friends. May 5, 2009
Ladd

  5.9
Ladd    
  5.9
It did result in some substaintial pump, a lot of downclimbing to find placements and strange beta due to the lack of holds as I filled the crack with gear. May 11, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Was it really a bet Ladd, or was it beacuse of "the fear?" May 11, 2007
Ladd

  5.9
Ladd    
  5.9
I placed my ENTIRE standard rack (30 odd pieces) in this climb(on a bet), It sucks up gear and each placement is solid.
Perfect lead for the trad leader looking to break into 5.9 May 11, 2007