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Areas in Devil's Den

Cave Wall, The 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Land of Overhangs, The 7 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Outback Wall, The 3 / 5 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Outcrops, The 12 / 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Scoop Area, The 3 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Slab Wall, The 8 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Upper Tier, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

Devils Den in New Durham, NH is composed of 4 main cliff areas ranging from 40-75 feet. The area also draws attention from many hikers. The area offers a variety of hiking trails as well as "The Devils Den Cave". The top of the crag provides great views of Lake Winnipesaukee and the surrounding mountains. There are signs of previous local climbers who have left anchors on old trad routes and a few mixed routes. The den saw the bulk of its development in 2008.

The Cave Wall was probably the first wall developed at The Den. It offers a few questionable trad routes.Up and [climbers]right of this wall is another 20+ foot wall which has some good easy routes and some bouldering opportunites.
The Slab Wall is the most popular wall at The Den due to its height and moderate classic steep slab climbs. This wall also ices up in the winter and make for several nice ice climbs.
The Land of Overhangs is characterized by its steep climbing with mixed roof systems. It offers wild and exciting moves on good rock.
Between the Land of Overhangs and the Outback Wall are outcrops offering a variety of short climbs.
The Outback Wall has numerous technical steep sport and mixed routes. This wall has excellent rock quality with a beautiful setting. This wall also holds many of the area classics.

I also want to thank all the locals who have put in a lot of time and effort at THE DEN.

Getting There

July 2018 NOTE: The "Class 6" road mentioned below and in the Chinos Guidebook is CLOSED TO VEHICLES AT THE GATE; thus requiring at least an additional 1 1/2 mile walk.  I say "at least" because there is also "No Parking" signs around the gate, although when we were there a pickup was parked there. Speaking with more "local" climbers at Longstaff, this seems to have been the status for a couple of years now; hence unlikely to change. R Hall NH Admin.

To get to Devils Den from the South: From Route 16 north and take Exit 15 "Lake Winnipesaukee". Follow Route 11 northwest to the Alton Traffic Circle. Head straight through getting on Route 28 north. Take Drew Hill Road on the right just after the Alton Flats. Take a left onto Hayes Road. Turn right past a gate 100 feet after the pavement ends (marked by ATV signs). Follow this Class 6 road (cars can make it!) veering left at a fork, follow for 1.5 miles to a pullout on the right with 2 good sized cairns. Park and walk uphill on a logging road for 4 minutes. The road will lead you to the base of the slab wall and the cave wall will be to your right. (There are many pulloffs on the way in if you choose to walk. A bike is also a nice fast way to get there.)

From the North: Take Route 16 south to Ossipee. Turn right onto Route 28 south just before the stop light. Follow Route 28 through Wolfeboro. Turn left onto Drew Hill Road a couple miles after it turns back to highway. Take a left onto Hayes Road. Turn right past a gate 100 feet after the pavement ends.[marked by ATV signs] Follow this Class 6 road (cars can make it!) veering left at a fork, follow for 1.5 miles to a pullout on the right with 2 good sized cairns. Park and walk uphill on a logging road for 4 minutes. The road will lead you to the base of the slab wall and the cave wall will be to your right. (There are many pulloffs on the way in if you choose to walk. A bike is also a nice fast way to get there.)

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Den

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I was flipping through the routes here, and noticed a discrepancy in terminology. A lot of the routes here say they are sport but require gear, these should be listed as trad climbs so people do not get lured in and end up getting hurt. Hope this doesn't come across as offensive. May 8, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Wow, tons of routes. Great effort guys. I'll have to check out these climbs. Room for more development? May 8, 2009
No offense taken Matt. I was hoping to call some of them "mixed" routes seeing as how it is mostly fixed gear. hopefully the site will have a "mixed" designation at some point. I will change them though i do agree, we dont want to get anyone hurt. Thanks for your input we want to make this page as accurate as possible. May 8, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks shane glad you were understanding, I am really excited to check it out sometime, do you have any favorite routes? May 8, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
hey Shane, just ta let ya know a lot of trad climbs actually have bolts on them :) i just found that out the other day actually :) so you don't need to feel bad calling them trad climbs. trad doesn't refer (sp check?) to only placing gear it short for traditional.. which you probably know but even back in the day ( which was a Wednesday) they would bolt stuff where there were no placements for gear so the route would go :) so go ahead and call em trad without fear :) ....side note.... all this info was courtesy of lee hansche :) good teacher :) May 8, 2009
my personal favorite routes are Stolen and Hellraiser both pretty tech steep slab climbs[5.9ish] on very good rock. On the outback cliff Secret agent[5.10b] is a great short climb and also Devil man [5.11d] may be "the" hard route for the Den. This place is definatley worth a look. May 9, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Ground up? On rappel? Power drills/hand drills? What's the predominent ethic there. I'm game for whatever, I think a friend of mine, casey, went out and climbed with some of you guys there one afternoon. May 11, 2009
The bolts that i know of, have been placed on rappel. Some by hand and some with a power drill.There might be a line or two put up this year on the lead but so far not yet. Yeah he did climb in the area with us a few weeks ago. May 11, 2009
Lincoln  
Alot of bouldering potential. May 11, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
That is good to know I have been on a bouldering kick so iy gives me another reason to get out there May 11, 2009
Checked out this area for the first time this weekend. Awesome rock with some great routes already set up and cleaned. Thanks everyone who made this possible. Aug 9, 2009
Edge
Between Nederland and Boulder,
Edge   Between Nederland and Boulder,
I just ran across these descriptions yesterday for the first time; now I can finally put names to the development that I have been watching up at the Den.

A few notes for historical perspective:

I currently live in New Durham and have for the last 17 years. Much prior to that (1970's) I lived in Middleton and used to ride my bike to the Den to top rope and scramble.

Around 1978 I led an all gear route up the middle of the slab wall, but can't remember where exactly. Probably in the vicinity of your "Cloak and Dagger" or "Joyride." It was a bit run-out, definitely a no fall zone. I seem to remember threading a crystal that spanned a holizontal as pro about halfway up, but that very well may be gone now.

My daughter and I top roped "Secret Agent" and "Another Syd Route" right after they were scrubbed and after a couple practice burns I soloed "Secret Agent." This was before the bolts appeared; sorry, I really didn't think it would get bolted. On a subsequent trip Meg worked "Devil Man" for about 20 minutes, but we left due to cold and darkness, and she has yet to make it back to send; again, this was right after the bolts sprang up.

When we first noticed the bolts on "Syd's Slab," Meaghan started up with a rack of sport draws only and finished it (!) without any supplemental gear; she was 16 at the time! Realistically one additional bolt would help prevent someone else from making this mistake.

Three years ago I led a group from the school I was teaching at to explore the cave; it was a pigsty. We spent about 2 hours hauling out huge amounts of broken bottles, cans, candle stubs, cigarette butts, paper, and the remains of the old ladder. I realize that this is likely not climber related, but it would be nice if subsequent groups did the same from time to time to help keep it clean and make good impressions on the landowner, whoever that is.

I never personally bolted anything there because I was too lazy to check into landowner status. Who is it anyway?

Mar 4, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Jon let me know i live 15 minutes away from the den i will certainly help out. Also on the trash note their is a shit ton of broken glass by the slabs so i would not recommend walking around with bare feet. Mar 9, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
A big thank you goes out to Jon and Jim for cleaning out the den.It looks great keep up the good work. Apr 12, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
GPS coordinates N43 30.832 W71 10.227 Apr 26, 2010
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
hey guys

so i was out at the outback wall on friday and i saw a new route that it bolted just climbers right of jedi mind tricks. its on the arete/right corner. i was wondering what climb this is and/or if it is an open project. anyways i was wondering if you could give me some bata on it like anchor, grade, ect.

thanks
pat Oct 11, 2010
alpineclimb Cormier
Stratham, NH
alpineclimb Cormier   Stratham, NH
Any info on the Ice routes? I'm looking for place closer to the seacoast as this is where I now reside! Oct 14, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
There is a little bit of ice here,the slab wall ices up nicely Oct 14, 2010
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
To tell you the truth the ice out there is weird,Its thin at the bottom and big up top.If you can find the bolts down low clip them because you aren't getting any screws in till about half way up. It's a great place to tr. if you want to check out some ice, then let me know sometime an I will show you where we ice climb around the new durham, wolfeboro area. Oct 14, 2010
Ryan Goslin
Rumney, NH
Ryan Goslin   Rumney, NH
found shoes today near the slab area. send me a pm with the description so i can get them back to you Sep 14, 2011
Shane Noble
Portland, Maine
Shane Noble   Portland, Maine
When we went out today the gate was closed. The adjacent landowner said they closed it due to 'out of state' ATV riders destroying the area. We were instructed to park by the No Parking sign on the side of the road by the gate, rather then on the side of Hayes Rd. Nov 5, 2014
chinos  
Its too bad this once happening spot has gone into obscurity after the gate being closed. How was it out there Shane? Nov 15, 2014
New parking beta. Do not park near the closed gate and "no parking" sign. I parked there on our first day, no ticket no tow, but the next morning we were warned by a local to avoid parking there. He directed us to the public parking area for ATV riders and gun owners (the parking lot is also a public shooting range). From this parking lot, the (easy)hike in is 2.5 miles. After turning onto Hayes Road, stay on it until it ends at a stop sign. Turn right. Look for a signed parking lot on the left. Park here. Not sure if driving a vehicle in beyond this point is legal, as it is designated for ATV's and motorcycles. Regardless, turn right at the first two intersections. You will pass one more intersection where you could turn right. Continue straight ahead and eventually up a large hill. At the top of the hill look to your right for an unsigned trail. There is a medium boulder painted with a blue cross or "t". Take this trail (this is a different approach from the original description) for a short ways, passing a few stone campfire rings. You will arrive at the base of the Outback Wall. If you come to a beaver pond on the right you've missed the trail. I'm not certain but I think the original approach trail can be found by turning right at the final(third)intersection and looking for it on your left. There is one cairn there now, not two. Jul 29, 2015
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
Cracker, are you talking about the shooting range off of Rines Rd, the one where people often park to get to Longstack? If so, it may be easier to just take a right onto Rines Rd. from Rt 28 and follow it past the Knight's Pond turnoff. The "shooting range" (ie mounds of dirts in a big open area) will be on your left, just before the road turns to sh*t.

Thanks for the updated directions... I've been wanting to explore Devil's Den. I still can't believe that these areas don't see more climbers. Sep 17, 2015
Villen
Somerville, MA
Villen   Somerville, MA
I followed Matt Nottingham's directions for hiking in to Devil's Den this past Sunday. Matt's directions are excellent; got me there with no detours. I offer the following for added clarification:

The intersections that Matt describes are REALLY clear. There are lots of old trails, gates, and logging roads that intersect and abut the main ATV trails. Ignore them all. The intersections that Matt is talking about have signposts with arrows pointing to various destinations; if you don't see a 4x4 post about 6 feet tall covered in directional signs, that's not one of the intersections.

The whole hike took about 50 minutes (both coming and going). Aug 8, 2017
Marc B  
As of late August 2017, the shooting range parking lot is closed to the public with no trespassing signs. The Knight's Pond conservation area has parking if open, but it's a good distance away from the road in the wrong direction. Parking on a pulloff is probably best. I saw many ATVers parked near the shooting range in various pulloffs. If you can't find anywhere on the road and don't want to park at Knight's Pond, you can drive past the shooting range and the road becomes a single lane trail. After a short distance you'll come to a small clearing on the left, followed by a large clearing on the left. Oct 4, 2017

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