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Routes in The Slab Wall

Bugs Are Bad, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cloak + Dagger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellraiser S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hunting Unicorns With Hand Grenades T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Joy Ride T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Left Arete variation finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
No Bolts Please T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
People of the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silver Dollar TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stolen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syd's Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: mr. mystery on May 7, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route was probably a trad route at some time. It has been bolted due to questionable gear in the cracks (can still be done on trad for a rush!)Climb up horizontal cracks with opportunity for good finger sized cams, or run it out to the first bolt. Follow 5.6-7 climbing to the forth bolt. Pull the final crux mantle move (5.8+) to the chain anchors.

Location

Slab Wall

Protection

Cams, 4 bolts to Chain Anchors

Photos

chinos
  5.8+
chinos  
  5.8+
Hey Patrick, do you know who first did the route? like josh was saying, i grew up around here and know only a few local climbers who started climbing around the area in the late 90's and Loran from the late 70's and 80's. a few anchors showed up on top of the cliff and seemed to be in places for top rope access (just hangers). i will gladly chop any bolts placed in the wrong and will give credit where credit is due.

with a lack of people to ask it is hard to know the history of the area. I have started a guidebook with all the local crags and the 120+ routes we have done over the years. If you can provide some info to help write an accurate history to prevent any further problems it would be greatly appreciated. i will be coming by the brewster barn to get info for a write up on Brewster's Outdoor Club. All of this info will be included in a southern nh guide coming soon.

after the bolts are chopped you can be the first to lead it!

P.S., if you have a problem in the future contact me personally so we can resolve it without the public embarrassment. i don't agree with retro bolting without permission of the FA party, and don't want to be known as one who does so. Oct 10, 2010
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
yah i dont mean no harm i was just wondering everyones views on retro bolting and what was the reason for changing it to a bolted route Sep 27, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.9
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.9
Hay Mark,There are not to many people to ask about the history,There are a few locals that have put the bolts up like chinos and jim dickson.The erliest person that I know that have climed hear is Loran Smith back in the 80's but other than that i think it's been undescovered till a few years ago and thats why alot of the FA's were left blank.

Patrick,the reson why the bolts were put in was due to questionable rock,they were affraid of the gear braking out.You might want to send chinos (jon) an e-mail or something.He would know best.
Joshua Sep 27, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It sounds like you guys need to start by digging deeper to see if you can find out the history of the route. Who first lead it? What do they think? Maybe they agreed on the retro or even did it them self. After really asking around, if nobody knows the history, what is the consensus of other users of the area? Sep 27, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.9
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.9
Its perfect the way it is. Sep 26, 2010
chinos
  5.8+
chinos  
  5.8+
The best warm up and intro to climbing at the den Jun 18, 2009