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Routes in The Land of Overhangs

Crystal Crimpin' V3-4 6A+
Fools Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Go-Go Gadget Arm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here he comes, Rico Suave T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Hole in the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hysteria S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master Exploder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
People Under the Stairs T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sorry Joe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Dickson and Jay Denver
Page Views: 1,555 total · 15/month
Shared By: mr. mystery on May 7, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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About 15 feet left of People Under the Stairs is a lone bolt. This marks the start of the route. Climb up past the bolt and make moves up to a ledge placing gear. Clip a fixed draw out on the lip of the big roof overhead. Extend your arm way out over the roof to gain a flake and pull the roof. Continue up flakes placing gear on easier climbing to a tree anchor.


The Land of Overhangs


cams, 2 bolts, tree anchor


The fixed sling and biner above the roof are still there and looked to be in pretty good shape. Aug 11, 2015
The tree anchor has 2 rap rings. They are secured with a double loop of cord and a single loop of cord. There is also a length of sling, but this has been cut in an attempt to remove it I think. I tried to remove the cut sling but could not. I think it needs to be cut in a second spot to remove it. The cords looked old but OK. I would recommend backing up the cords or replacing one or both. I had no way to replace or back these up, but I will next time I climb this. A fun climb. My + 4.5" ape index was helpful reaching the flake from under the roof. Aug 11, 2015
there is a fixed sling and biner. please leave this gear in place. Jun 21, 2009

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