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Routes in The Land of Overhangs

Crystal Crimpin' V3-4 6A+
Fools Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Go-Go Gadget Arm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here he comes, Rico Suave T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Hole in the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hysteria S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master Exploder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
People Under the Stairs T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sorry Joe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Dickson and Jay Denver
Page Views: 1,654 total · 14/month
Shared By: mr. mystery on May 7, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

About 15 feet left of People Under the Stairs is a lone bolt. This marks the start of the route. Climb up past the bolt and make moves up to a ledge placing gear. Clip a fixed draw out on the lip of the big roof overhead. Extend your arm way out over the roof to gain a flake and pull the roof. Continue up flakes placing gear on easier climbing to a tree anchor.

Location

The Land of Overhangs

Protection

cams, 2 bolts, tree anchor

Photos

chinos
  5.10b
chinos  
  5.10b
there is a fixed sling and biner. please leave this gear in place. Jun 21, 2009
The tree anchor has 2 rap rings. They are secured with a double loop of cord and a single loop of cord. There is also a length of sling, but this has been cut in an attempt to remove it I think. I tried to remove the cut sling but could not. I think it needs to be cut in a second spot to remove it. The cords looked old but OK. I would recommend backing up the cords or replacing one or both. I had no way to replace or back these up, but I will next time I climb this. A fun climb. My + 4.5" ape index was helpful reaching the flake from under the roof. Aug 11, 2015
The fixed sling and biner above the roof are still there and looked to be in pretty good shape. Aug 11, 2015
Steven Scherr
Boston
Steven Scherr   Boston
There was a sling and single cord with 2 rap rings around the tree anchor. The cord was cut but left in place and still through both rings. The cord looked like it was in decent shape and Im not sure why it was cut in the first place, but definitely should not have been left in place. Pretty scary to grab it and have it come off in my hand. Jun 15, 2018

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