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The North End Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The North End

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bail Safe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
	Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fail Safe T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Jack The Ripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Possessed, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	They Died Laughing T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	690 ft	210 m
GPS:	44.06728, -71.16671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Jan 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect Hot Henry

Getting There

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.

24 Total Climbs

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Location:	The North End Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The North End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 258 ● Childs Play Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 288 ● Kiddy Crack Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 135 ● The Roof aka The Corner Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 528 ● They Died Laughing Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 354 ● Bird's Nest Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 66 ● Raising The Roof Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 15 ● Merrill's Variation Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 204 ● The Slot Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X 12 ● Be Sharp Or B Flat Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Thresher Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 25 ● Bail Safe Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 139 ● Recluse Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 21 ● Jack The Ripper Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R 6 ● Fail Safe Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 45 ● The Possessed Trad, TR