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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…

Getting There

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: The North End Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The North End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 168
Kiddy Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
The Roof aka The Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 281
They Died Laughing
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 189
Bird's Nest
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Raising The Roof
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Merrill's Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
The Liger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 117
The Slot
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Recluse Traverse
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Bail Safe
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Thresher
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 81
Recluse
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 10
Jack The Ripper
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
The Possessed
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kiddy Crack
 168
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Roof aka The Corner
 54
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
They Died Laughing
 281
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bird's Nest
 189
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Raising The Roof
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Merrill's Variation
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Liger
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Slot
 117
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Recluse Traverse
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bail Safe
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thresher
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Recluse
 81
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jack The Ripper
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
The Possessed
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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