Elevation: 690 ft
GPS: 44.067, -71.167 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,903 total · 275/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…

Getting There

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: The North End Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The North End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 177
Kiddy Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
The Roof aka The Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 299
They Died Laughing
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 201
Bird's Nest
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Raising The Roof
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Merrill's Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
The Liger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
The Slot
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Recluse Traverse
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Bail Safe
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Thresher
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Recluse
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 12
Jack The Ripper
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
The Possessed
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kiddy Crack
 177
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Roof aka The Corner
 62
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
They Died Laughing
 299
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bird's Nest
 201
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Raising The Roof
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Merrill's Variation
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Liger
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Slot
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Recluse Traverse
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bail Safe
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thresher
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Recluse
 87
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jack The Ripper
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
The Possessed
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The North End »

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