Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 690 ft 210 m
GPS: 44.06728, -71.16671
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 88,147 total · 417/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…

Getting There Suggest change

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.

23 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The North End Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The North End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 245
Childs Play
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 271
Kiddy Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 123
The Roof aka The Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 497
They Died Laughing
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 335
Bird's Nest
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Raising The Roof
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Merrill's Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
The Liger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 192
The Slot
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Thresher
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 9
Be Sharp Or B Flat
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Bail Safe
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 134
Recluse
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 20
Jack The Ripper
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
The Possessed
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Childs Play
 245
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Kiddy Crack
 271
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Roof aka The Corner
 123
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
They Died Laughing
 497
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bird's Nest
 335
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Raising The Roof
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Merrill's Variation
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Liger
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Slot
 192
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thresher
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Be Sharp Or B Flat
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad
Bail Safe
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Recluse
 134
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jack The Ripper
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
The Possessed
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The North End »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments