|GPS:||43.114, -71.177 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007 with 2 Suggestions|
|Admins:||BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Bouldering: There are nearly two dozen separate bouldering areas within the park of varying quality. At best, the high quality rock offers up ranges of styles and difficulties from V0 to V13. Between cracks, aretes, faces, slopers, crimps, highballs, and lowballs, every style is covered. The bouldering here is unmatched in New Hampshire and the sometimes coarse, sometimes fine grained granite will quickly wear through your skin but you won't want to stop. The most popular spots are Boulder Natural, the Round Pond Boulders, and Blair Woods, although by no means is that the extent of the bouldering. Hidden gems are scattered throughout the park, most of which didn't make it into the guidebook. Check out the New England climbing documentary Uncommon Ground for a little intro to what you will be climbing on in this magical forest of rocks. Seth having his heel pop.
Trad and Top Roping: The Lower Slabs, Upper Cliff, Devils Den and more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes. The Upper Cliff and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings, so venture out to one of the other crags if things are taken. A 5-10 minute walk will get you to either the Lower Cliff, the Dome, or the Ridgeline/Small Walls. The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches as well as a few multipitch climbs (and fewer crowds). Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you.
Sport Climbing: There are a few bolted sport routes in Devil's Den, the Microwave Area, and at the Yellow Dog Wall with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. The age and quality of the bolts are questionable, some are brand new, some are decades old, so be wary.
To reach Blair Woods or the Horse Farm Parking Area, continue on 156 and take a left onto Deerfield Rd.
For Blair, turn left at the boat launch sign and continue to the parking lot.
For the Horse Farm, continue past the boat ramp and turn left on to Round Pond Road (a short dirt road) to a parking area. If the parking area is full, park on the side of the paved road or risk being towed. From the parking area walk down the dirt road for a little under a mile until you reach round pond. to your left will be round pond bouldering area. To your right is Lake Side Crag and the Hillside Boulders, Walk beyond the hillside to get to upper cliff and lower slabs as well as Boulder Natural etc. There are a few signs to help with getting to the cliffs at this point.
To reach Reservation Rd, from Raymond take Rt 27 to Rt 107. Turn right on to Reservation Rd. Reservation road will turn to dirt. Continue down a curving hill and down more flat road. The most popular areas (boulder natural, round pond, upper cliffs and lower slabs etc.) are accessed by Turning left and driving through an orange gate (Gate #5). Follow the rough road for a few miles bearing left at one point and after a fairly steep often very rough hill look for parking. then hike an obvious trail (on the left) for a few minutes to get to Boulder Natural, continue past to get to all other areas.
You may also drive right up to round pond and park there which is nice for Round pond boulders and Lakeside crag area.
Reservation Rd is closed in winter.
State Park & Camping Information
Camping is prohibited anywhere else in the park.
Pawtuckaway State Park Website
Pawtuckaway State Park Map (PDF)
Pine Acres Campground
Classic Climbing Routes at Pawtuckaway
Days w Precip