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Areas in Pawtuckaway

Area 51 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Blair Woods 0 / 0 / 0 / 155 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 155
Boulder Natural 0 / 0 / 0 / 206 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 206
Cliff Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Devil's Den 14 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 15
Devil's Den Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 47 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Dome, The 4 / 0 / 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Fire Road Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Fire Tower, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Godzilla Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hillside (aka Summit Boulder Area) 9 / 0 / 8 / 46 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 56
Ivory Tower 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Lakeside Crag 7 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Lonely Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lower Cliff 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lower Slabs 6 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Magic Pond 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Microwave Area 7 / 0 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 7
Milestones, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
North Marsh Boulders (aka South Seas) 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Ridgeline 4 / 0 / 6 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Round Pond 0 / 0 / 0 / 63 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 63
Sherman Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Trailside Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Upper Cliff 23 / 0 / 19 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Yellow Dog Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 320 ft
GPS: 43.114, -71.177 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 398,812 total, 3,043/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007 with updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Overview

Located in Nottingham, NH, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southernmost of the major climbing destinations in the state. Hundreds of glacial erratic boulders line the forests while the assorted and scattered crags stay mostly out of sight. The three small mountains of Pawtuckaway are the remains of a ring dike formed by an extinct volcano and the rock is a smooth but fully textured granite of a different quality than the climbing elsewhere in this so-called Granite State. While the park is known primarily for its bouldering, which happens to be some of the best in the country, crack climbs of exceptional quality abound on the numerous crags alongside slabs and difficult face climbs. Between boulder problems and routes there are nearly a thousand climbs to be enjoyed, put up over the years by the likes of Dave Graham, Tim Kemple, Rio Rose, Brett Meyers, John Sirois, Dean Potter, Charlie Bentley, and dedicated crews from UNH. In short, there’s plenty here for everyone. Grab a pad or a rack and come hone your skills before you unleash them on the world, or for those of you who aren't local this is a great place to take a road trip to. As with all New Hampshire crags, it is best in Autumn but fun always.

Bouldering: There are nearly two dozen separate bouldering areas within the park of varying quality. At best, the high quality rock offers up ranges of styles and difficulties from V0 to V13. Between cracks, aretes, faces, slopers, crimps, highballs, and lowballs, every style is covered. The bouldering here is unmatched in New Hampshire and the sometimes coarse, sometimes fine grained granite will quickly wear through your skin but you won't want to stop. The most popular spots are Boulder Natural, the Round Pond Boulders, and Blair Woods, although by no means is that the extent of the bouldering. Hidden gems are scattered throughout the park, most of which didn't make it into the guidebook. Check out the New England climbing documentary Uncommon Ground for a little intro to what you will be climbing on in this magical forest of rocks.

Trad and Top Roping: The Lower Slabs, Upper Cliff, Devils Den and more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes. The Upper Cliff and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings, so venture out to one of the other crags if things are taken. A 5-10 minute walk will get you to either the Lower Cliff, the Dome, or the Ridgeline/Small Walls. The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches as well as a few multipitch climbs (and fewer crowds). Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you.

Sport Climbing: There are a few bolted sport routes in Devil's Den, the Microwave Area, and at the Yellow Dog Wall with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. The age and quality of the bolts are questionable, some are brand new, some are decades old, so be wary.

Getting There

Getting to the park is easy...Take exit 5 off of Rt 101 in Raymond NH, then follow signs, however, none of the climbing areas are accessed via the State Park entrance.

To reach Blair Woods or the Horse Farm Parking Area, continue on 156 and take a left onto Deerfield Rd.
For Blair, turn left at the boat launch sign and continue to the parking lot.
For the Horse Farm, continue past the boat ramp and turn left on to Round Pond Road (a short dirt road) to a parking area. If the parking area is full, park on the side of the paved road or risk being towed. From the parking area walk down the dirt road for a little under a mile until you reach round pond. to your left will be round pond bouldering area. To your right is Lake Side Crag and the Hillside Boulders, Walk beyond the hillside to get to upper cliff and lower slabs as well as Boulder Natural etc. There are a few signs to help with getting to the cliffs at this point.

To reach Reservation Rd, from Raymond take Rt 27 to Rt 107. Turn right on to Reservation Rd. Reservation road will turn to dirt. Continue down a curving hill and down more flat road. The most popular areas (boulder natural, round pond, upper cliffs and lower slabs etc.) are accessed by Turning left and driving through an orange gate (Gate #5). Follow the rough road for a few miles bearing left at one point and after a fairly steep often very rough hill look for parking. then hike an obvious trail (on the left) for a few minutes to get to Boulder Natural, continue past to get to all other areas.
You may also drive right up to round pond and park there which is nice for Round pond boulders and Lakeside crag area.

Reservation Rd is closed in winter.

Bug Warning

The black flies and mosquitoes of Pawtuckaway don't mess around. They are out for blood and they will come after you like you killed their mother (and you may have on another trip.) Bring bug dope, long sleeves, pants, hats, hoods, and a shotgun to fend them off if you come in the spring or early summer. Fall is the time to be here, and by the time the kids are back in school the crowds at the popular crags and the bugs have gone away and the park is yours.

State Park & Camping Information

The State Park has a nice family style campground and even has a few camp sites with boulders on them. (Check out site #4.)

Camping is prohibited anywhere else in the park.

Pawtuckaway State Park Website
Pawtuckaway Campground
Pine Acres Campground
Saddleback Campground
Pawtuckaway State Park Map (PDF)

Bouldering Videos

http://vimeo.com/5247565
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep7ttCjGwwc

773 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: *Pawtuckaway Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pawtuckaway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
Four Hole
Boulder
V0 4
Classic
Boulder
V0+ 4+
Cream
Boulder
V1 5
Bolt On Top
Boulder
V1+ 5
Essentials
Boulder
V2 5+
The Whip
Boulder
V2 5+
E-Z Cheese
Boulder
V2+ 5+
Cause for Commotion
Boulder
V3 6A
Hobbit Hole
Boulder
V3 6A
Bring the Ruckus
Boulder
V4 6B
Overlooked
Boulder
V6 7A
Ride the Lightning
Boulder
V6 7A
Terrorist
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pete's Tree
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Roof
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Four Hole Boulder Natural > Zoo V0 4 Boulder
Classic Round Pond V0 4 Boulder
Cream Round Pond V0+ 4+ Boulder
Bolt On Top Boulder Natural > Buttermilk Boulder V1 5 Boulder
Essentials Boulder Natural > Marsh Boulders V1+ 5 Boulder
The Whip Round Pond V2 5+ Boulder
E-Z Cheese Boulder Natural > Streambed Boulders V2 5+ Boulder
Cause for Commotion Round Pond V2+ 5+ Boulder
Hobbit Hole Boulder Natural > Zoo V3 6A Boulder
Bring the Ruckus Round Pond V3 6A Boulder
Overlooked Trailside Boulders V4 6B Boulder
Ride the Lightning Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders V6 7A Boulder
Terrorist Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders V6 7A Boulder
Pete's Tree Lower Slabs 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Roof Upper Cliff 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pawtuckaway »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Happy to report that the Swirly boulder has been reverted to its normal state. It takes an incredible amount of integrity to trudge out there in the cold probably after work and probably at night and undo what I'm sure took a huge amount of work in the first place. Huge huge respect from me to those responsible! Nov 24, 2017
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
As of 11/8 the Swirly boulder is still a mess. When I first saw the... 'additions' I thought it was heavy-handed, unnecessary, and made the landings for affected climbs more dangerous, not less, especially Uncle Climax. Now that the park has made a statement and those responsible have explicitly been made aware that their actions are not okay and could potentially compromise access to a place all of us love dearly, there's absolutely no excuse. Personally I'm disappointed. Everyone makes mistakes, everyone learns through trial and error, I sincerely and honestly hope those responsible can do the right thing and fix their mistake. Nov 11, 2017
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
To those who altered the land around the Swirly Boulder, it needs to be fixed...

- The landing platforms are unnecessary and actually can make the landing worse. It can lure other climbers into a false sense of security and then part of the platforms can fall apart on them. If you don't have the pads to climb something comfortably...DONT CLIMB IT!
- All the rocks taken from around the area left big pockets in the ground that can be ankle breakers, especially with fallen leaves covering them.
- Ethically, don't change an area without permission. Route development can be a gray area at times but changes to an already established area in such a way is uncalled for.

As a park official, I'm not going to get into any of the rules being broken by this...for now. As a climber, I'm hoping you can take note of the basic ethics of the park, which is keeping things minimal. I get you are trying to make the area "safer" but by making it more gym friendly by altering the land is no way to do it.

EDIT: The issue has been resolved. Thanks for taking the time to rehab the area. Oct 29, 2017
RhodeIslandJeff
Westerly, RI
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
Whats the name of the boulder on the fundy trail just past the marshes just before fundy cove. A decent boulder especially if your from out of state camping at the state park and want a second session of the day without making the drive to the other side of the park. Also noticed a decent size boulder on a horse island campsite. Thanks in advance. Jul 21, 2017
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Oh don't thank me, thank Brett Meyers and Kyle McCabe! Jul 7, 2017
Hale
Boston
Hale   Boston
Thanks Ian! I should have guessed this was already being handled. It's hard to be a good steward when your climbing area is already so well managed. Jul 7, 2017
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
It's being worked on Hale, from what I hear the proper people have been contacted, authorization has been given, and the tree will be removed soon by a qualified local arborist/climber. Jul 7, 2017
Hale
Boston
Hale   Boston
The very large tree next to Ride the Lightning at the Storm Boulder has fallen. RTL, Blaow, and Terrorist are all affected to some extent -- Terrorist especially. In my opinion, it would be best to assemble a chainsaw crew to extract the tree from the boulder. I expect that would require state park authorization and also state park personnel to do the work. Does anyone have any contacts with the park administration? I would be happy to work with them myself, although I will not realistically have any time to devote to it until September. Jul 6, 2017
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
Reservation Rd Gates are open. I opened them up a week and a half ago but still get daily questions. Now go forth and climb all the things! May 21, 2017
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Mountainproject recently changed the grade displayed on boulder problem pages to just be the average of what people suggest for the grade via tick or post. Sep 27, 2016
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
I don't want to get into a grade agruement (and yes I realize grades are just a guide) but I noticed Maxim is now 7- It is unfortunate that great lines like this get downed graded when they should remain a solid classic.

Could grade consensus that take place somehow (facilitated through this site) before it is graded officially? Or could MP promote more discussion about grade consensus? It would be good if we were able to focus more on accuracy. Then once graded with a consensus, leave it.

Sep 26, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Yeah people who drive to horse farm parking because their car can't handle the dirt road should now be able to drive down the dirt road to boulder natural parking or round pond. Aug 22, 2016
Wow Ian I've been climbing here since 2008 or 9 and its always been one of the worst dirt roads I've ever driven on. That is amazing, massive thanks to whatever NH crew did this. Aug 21, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
As of a week ago the road into Boulder Natural looks like it had a herculean effort to clean it up by the state. It was getting very very chewed up but now all the way in is silky smooth, not sure exactly which state/county/city department is responsible but i'm absolutely in awe of how massive an effort the grading/smoothing cleanup of the road must have been. Aug 20, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
Hale the gate is open and the road was completely fine when I drove in this past weekend. Apr 18, 2016
Hale
Boston
Hale   Boston
Is the gate off Reservation Rd. open yet? If not, does anyone know anecdotally when the park tends to open it? Apr 18, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
It was open on Sunday, and should be open until the first snow. Dec 2, 2015
Andrew Nelligan
Henniker, NH
Andrew Nelligan   Henniker, NH
Anyone know if the gate at Reservation Rd./Round Pond Rd. is still open? Dec 2, 2015
Charlie Boulanger
Tilton, New Hampshire
Charlie Boulanger   Tilton, New Hampshire
I was there last weekend, hit up boulder natural. Conditions were great. As far as the road, I hiked in from the farm, but I saw cars inside the park on the way in. Take that for what you will.

Has anyone purchased this guide? I cannot find any reference to it anywhere but their website.
pawtuckawayclimbing.us/ May 1, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
vimeo.com/104540703
A new installment of The Pawtuckaway Project. Footage from the Summer of 2014. Enjoy! Aug 28, 2014
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
I created a Pawtuckaway Climbing group on Vimeo for anyone who is interested in having one place to go look for Pway climbing videos. Join the group! Add to the group! Watch the videos in the group!

vimeo.com/groups/pwayclimbing May 15, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
New England Bouldering can be picked up at EMS (or online) and covers a good amount of bouldering in the park. For rope routes, Rock Climbing New England lists some. There's a scan of 'A climber's guide to Pawtuckaway State Park and Southeastern New Hampshire' by Todd Swain kicking around on the internet somewhere (maybe our forums still). Also there's an old scan of Dave and Marie Saball & Paul Boissonneault's '1995's Comprehensive Guide to Pawtuckaway Rock Climbs' that lists even more rope routes. There's also the underground guide ...

Mountain Project is your best free resource and is relatively complete. Feb 12, 2014
any input on the best guidebook for p-way? personal opinions welcome! Feb 11, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Thanks Mark! Yes, it was indeed a lot of fun making it.

If you haven't already, check out the recent Rumney one we put together. I'm sure you'll enjoy seeing footage of a place where you've spent so much of your time! Nov 17, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Well done film! Thanks for posting it. It must have been fun making it. Nov 17, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
vimeo.com/79342137
And here's Part 2!

The Pawtuckaway Project is our attempt to document some of the best climbs at Pawtuckaway, with a focus on less frequently shown/climbed lines that we think are outstanding. Part 2 is a collection of footage shot during the Fall of 2013. It includes three possible/probable first ascents.

Problems shown are: 'Universal Socket' (v6+), 'Red Right Hand' (v6), 'The Hug' (v6), 'Rubber Cement' (v8), 'Check Your Method' (v8), 'Dopeman Right' (v8), 'Lost At Sea' (v3), 'Feeling For The Heavens' (v4-), 'Individual Medley' (v6+) and 'Oblivious To Danger' (v5-).

We chose to speed up the footage of the last three problems. Because of the thoughtful and deliberate style of climbing that these particular lines require, we felt the footage would have been really slow and boring otherwise!

We hope you enjoy the video! Nov 16, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
vimeo.com/79334560
Here's a little video that some friends and I made this past Summer and Fall.

The Pawtuckaway Project is our attempt to document some of the best climbs at Pawtuckaway, with a focus on less frequently shown/climbed lines that we think are outstanding. Part 1 is a collection of footage shot during Late Summer of 2013.

Problems shown are: 'Yosemite Arete' (v4+), 'Red Devil' (v8), 'Numb Thumb' (v8-), 'Bodacious' (v7), 'Red' (v7), 'Seinfeld' (v2+), 'Lumberjack' (v5/6), 'Chuckie's Torture' (v8), 'Tectonic Plates' (v8), 'Jon's Arete' (v8), 'Italian Stallion' (v7+), 'The Rose' (v7), and 'The Dike Route' (v4/6). We had some space to fill at the end so we added footage of a near send of 'Ashes To Ashes' (v9) from this Fall.

We hope you enjoy the video! Nov 16, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
I thought people would be happy to know that the NHDOT has been kind enough to grade the Round Pond Road from the gate to Boulder Natural. They haven't graded the entire road, but they have graded and smoothed out most of the sections that were getting pretty heinous. Nothing has been graded/smoothed beyond Boulder Natural (as of yet at least). Some work has been done on the Fire Tower Road as well.

Needless to say, the road is ten times better than it was. Enjoy it! And if you see any of these guys out there working, thank them! Nov 8, 2013
Taylor J
new mexico, new england
Taylor J   new mexico, new england
bring enough deet and the flies are not to bad.... Sep 26, 2013
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Was there last weekend, 5-4-13 and black flies were swarming. Bring dope. With the wet weather could get worse. May 10, 2013
Mikhail  
How are the conditions so far at Pawtuckaway? Are the bugs terrible yet? I will be going weekend of May 17th, and purchased some bug repellent lotion.

Also has anyone camped at Pawtuckaway before? Are they strict with the exact number of people at one site? May 10, 2013
Jsutin  
Hi Everyone. I'm planing to head to Pawtuckaway this weekend. Might anyone know if either of the top rope routes can be set from up top rather than lead climbing to get up?

Thanks! Apr 29, 2013
found a pair of climbing shoes at blair woods near the valley boulders. pm me with make and size and you can pick them up at indoor ascent in dover. Mar 31, 2013
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
Here is another video for your enjoyment.

Bobby coming back east on his vaca and crushin it in Pway!

vimeo.com/56168507 Dec 22, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
We should really get a video section up here or something.
vimeo.com/53565022
Pawtuckin: A nice October day of bouldering in Pawtuckaway.
Boulder problems featured: Essentials v2, Kalbro v3, E-Z Cheese v2, Up in Smoke v7, and Runaway v4/5
Climbers: Ali Heiden, Eric Heiden, and Steve Briggs Nov 15, 2012
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
More bouldering Videos! I made this last week. The last problem a First Ascent by Ezra Landis, a super fun V5 on hillside boulders. Go check it out!


vimeo.com/52323063 Oct 28, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
vimeo.com/51642805
Here's a video I made during my last three days in New Hampshire before heading back to my home in Colorado. I spent them enjoying the crisp conditions (in between bouts of rain) at Pawtuckaway, specifically Blair Woods. Problems shown are: 'Fuck The Method' (v6/7), Damn The Man (v7/8), Jeremy's Sick Crimps (v9??), Ball Doctor (v5 ), Pimp Juice (v5) and Pinkerton (v4). Enjoy! Oct 17, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Here's a video I shot of some solo sessions after work throughout the month of June. Problems include: 'Burt Gives Blowjobs' (v6), a flash of 'Maxim' (v7), 'Atlas' (v6 ), 'Provia' (v6) and 'Bulletproof' (v6 and extra fun when it's 85 degrees).

vimeo.com/45213273 Jul 4, 2012
Justin Sanford
Broadalbin, New York
Justin Sanford   Broadalbin, New York
I am trying to plan a long weekend to boulder in Pawtuckaway. I recently bought the New England bouldering guidebook to help navigate the area but does anyone have any good beta on where to stay? I have heard that if you stay in the park campground you aren't all that close to the boulders, is this true? Any other recommendations? Closest grocery store? Beverage centers? Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
jsanford (at) thelagroup (dot) com Jun 28, 2012
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Thats to bad I was hoping to work on my gymnastics routine,ha,ha May 1, 2012
pole vault mat has been removed. May 1, 2012
Lemony  
If anyone is aware of who brought the large pole vault mat out to Boulder Natural, please inform them to remove it within the week. This thoughtless action will jeopardize our access to climbing at Pawtuckaway. Apr 29, 2012
ctmeg
Middletown, CT
ctmeg   Middletown, CT
Does anyone know where you can stay overnight in March free or for a relatively good price? I'm looking to climb next weekend in Pawtuckaway (March 24-25) and looking for somewhere to crash, either camping or cheap motel, etc. Thanks for any help! Mar 17, 2012
Video of random climbs in Boulder Natural and a send of Individual Medley.
vimeo.com/33702259 Dec 16, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Video from December 3rd. Includes sends of The Arrow, Rio's Problem, Terrorist, Bring the Ruckus, Ride the Lightning, and Dopeman:

vimeo.com/33263058

Video from Dec. 17th, 2011: Includes sends of E-Z Cheese, Hobbit Direct, and Bulletproof:
vimeo.com/33902009 Dec 7, 2011
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
Headed out to Pawtuckaway this thanksgiving and shot a short bouldering video. This is my first so dont expect too much

youtube.com/watch?v=HooNT9w… Nov 24, 2011
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
A Story in Two Parts

Spring Session at Pawtuckaway State Park from JMM on Vimeo. May 5, 2011
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Perfect temps for an early morning jaunt on sunday, 55 out and sunny. No one was out when we were there. The bridge took a bruising from the flooding two weeks ago. Broke a hold on something (v3ish) on the right hand side of the welcome boulder (I think). Feels a little harder than before. Mar 8, 2010
Haha, I've never seen a single person at Pawtuckaway care if you have your dog with you or not. In fact, I'd say more people go with their dogs than without. Feb 8, 2010
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
The official rule on dogs at Pawtuckaway is that no dogs are allowed. The only place I've ever heard of anyone catching grief for having a dog in Pawtuckaway is at the Fire Tower (that's the only area I've ever seen a park official at, actually). Feb 3, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Romeo, my dog, has always gone to p-way. I think that the climbing areas are far enough away from the main area that it really isn't an issue. Especially blair woods/fire tower/magic pond/etc. Sep 11, 2009
Adam Knoff
Boulder, CO
Adam Knoff   Boulder, CO
Thanks Julian. The hound will be very excited to hear that! Sep 11, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Can't quote the rule for you Adam, but I encounter dogs there every time I go. I have friends who bring dogs as well. Never seen or heard of anyone catching grief for it. Sep 11, 2009
Adam Knoff
Boulder, CO
Adam Knoff   Boulder, CO
Does anyone know what the actual rule pertaining to dogs is here? I keep finding conflicting info. Are they allowed in the park or not? Do they enforce this? What about after labor day? Thanks. Sep 11, 2009
Jon Felch   NH
Has anybody climbed at the Magic Pond in the middle of Pawtuckaway Park? if you have and have any information to share please add it to the new Magic Pond area I added to the site. I posted some pictures of the boulders so if you know the names of any of the climbs let us know. Aug 9, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
found it today.. the climbing there looks to be pretty good. most of the stuff was along a stream correct? The trail is very faint but on my way back I found it. there also seems to be some slab stuff there too. Some of that stuff looked fun. I only found like 15 or so boulders that were tall enough to be climbed on.. and then it started to rain. Jul 4, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
1 decent boulder just a couple min in from the dirt track, up hill towards the ridge with an overhang, facing you. start on the rt side of the overhang, sitting and traverse left then top out at the crack. some more stuff in the back too. i remember it being a decent place to warm up in the winter as it got the sun and tended to dry out quickly. no idea what we called it Jul 1, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
alright thanks bryce. "when conditions improve" that might be next year Jun 30, 2009
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
Jesse, you were right in going right each time, but if you were looking for a trail, you won't find one. I went out there about 3 weeks ago and whatever herd path there used to be has been destroyed by the ice storm last winter. There is a cairn marking where it starts, but there aren't any boulders visible from the trail because they are probably 15 minutes from the trail. When conditions improve, I can take you out there. Jun 30, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
so just before the swamp head left? any other land marks? are the boulders visible from the trail?

i'm really good at getting lost... so any specifics could be life savers haha thanks Jun 29, 2009
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
That sounds right. The road has been pretty wet the last few weeks, but if you keep following it you'll come to a swamp that visible on your left. Take a left off the road and bushwhack into the woods before you get to the swamp. Jun 29, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
jesse, if its the same place im thinking of... i think ive been lost out there too... but i hear good things... Jun 29, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
tried finding the area you were talking about but had some difficulty. there were two intersections that i came across. I went riightish/straight at both of them and started to go down a hill, but the road was in rough shape and decided that id rather have a better idea of were the boulders were before i trekked through the river/trail.

was i right in going right/straight at both intersections? Jun 29, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
thanks. i'll be sure to make my way out there verrryy soon Jun 10, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Hmm.. I don't remember it taking quite that long to get to it. I used to drive in via Reservation Rd, take a left on Tower Rd and in a few hundred yards park on the rt at the junction with Mountain Tr. (Look for #5 on park map) Walk in here and instead of breaking left like you were going to the tower, stay straight until you are coming down the south slope of S Mountain. Break left off the dirt track and head basically east with S Mountain on your left and a small marsh on your rt. You will first go by more scattered boulders, then the boulders get better, bigger and more clustered.

Unless the park officials really don't want anything published, I think you should go ahead and post. I just made sure I wore orange during hunting season and never had a problem.. I know my friends and I must have put up at least 50 problems and many were super good. With the further development, it must be loaded with classics. The walk is well worth it. Jun 10, 2009
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
The area off the back of South Mountain has been dubbed "Area 51" by those responsible for most of the recent development. Due to a lack of a clear trail and concern amongst park officials about hunters frequenting the area, I haven't wanted to post anything about it. There are probably 100+ problems out there now, but the hike is roughly 40 minutes to get there. Jun 9, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
What are people calling the big area down below the south slope of South Mountain now, the general area where the huge Mowgli boulder is? About 5-6 years ago Ward and Chris Smith, Dave Quinn and I rediscovered the area, cleaned and put up a bunch of problems. I then showed Brett the area and there has since been more development (a highball V10 among others). I haven't been able to get back for a few years, but I thought this area was at least equal if not better than most of the other areas. I'm surprised to see nothing about it here yet. Jun 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Just finished putting together a video of a day at Pawtuckaway featuring classics like Overlooked and Hobbit Hole and also some of the new Trailside stuff ive cleaned in the last year or so... check it out...

youtube.com/watch?v=ep7ttCj… May 28, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Paul, Pawtuckaway is about half covered by swamp, so the bugs can be intense. July is likely to be hot and humid as well. With bug spray you could probably enjoy yourself, but it's risky with the temps and the bugs.

Also, this conversation should probably be happening in the forums... May 17, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
so i want to come to pawtuckaway in july. i realize it wont be of the same quality as the fall, but will it be miserable? my dad has been to rumney at the same time of year, but it was an unusually cold day which he thought discouraged bugs. thanks, paul May 16, 2009
Tara Anne   WA
A bit of a trek through the woods, careful for bottoming out or scraping your car with branches. The area is a bit hidden, but has amazing climbs and feels great in such a secluded area. It feels a bit like a hidden gem in the middle of the woods... Stop at the information building, they'll know somewhat how to get there. May take a few tries and misses before you get on the right track. There should be fliers explaining how to get to the boulders, drive careful! Apr 24, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Basilisk has scanned an old guidebook for Pawtuckaway. You can download it here. Feb 15, 2009
cstorms
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
Ladd thanks for clarifying which months are good...when i was there i suffered the attack of the flies/mosquitoes...anybody have more bouldering pictures? for the amount of problems, there aren't a whole lot of pictures Mar 14, 2008
Ladd    
This area is awesome from August-Mid May however the late spring/summer bring killer black flies that make climbing miserable Apr 12, 2007

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