Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ben Fuller
Page Views: 5,409 total · 51/month
Shared By: Lanky on Apr 9, 2010
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

45 Opinions

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Start sitting on the right side of the boulder with a hanging, blocky arete to your left. Heel hooks and tension get you to a pinch and a sharp crimp. From here, make a big move and lots more tension lead to a slopey but solid topout.


In Devil's Den, head past the Up In Smoke Boulder and follow the trail towards the swampy pond. It will head down and right. At the bottom of that dip, take a left. The problem is on the water-facing side of a boulder right by the pond's edge.


A couple of pads will help cover the rock in the middle of the landing. A spotter to keep you from tipping backwards into the swamp isn't a bad idea.


Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
IMO this is probably the best V7 in the park.

I think we had 8 pads up there one day, but two pads will work fine if someone moves them as you go. I can't picture falling into the pond, but knocking your spotter into the water is a possibility. Apr 9, 2010
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
vimeo.com/28720479 Sep 7, 2011
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
This thing is very sustained and almost a bit more power endurance based. There's no shutdown move per se, but every move is relatively challenging and requires lots of tension. Enough so to the point that when you reach the finishing 'jugs', they don't feel quite as good as you think they should. This problem definitely isn't over until you're standing on top!

Outstanding climb. Definitely one of the best in the park. Nov 8, 2013
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
Graham O.  
Amazing climb! Jul 10, 2016
Hale   Boston
This climb deserves a cooler name. Nov 6, 2016