Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,284 total · 50/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


148 Opinions

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Description

After bouldering all across the country this remains perhaps my very favorite problem. It is both technical and powerful and involves a greater variety of holds and movements than most boulders.

An amazing boulder problem involving crazy beta and full body fitness. Start under the lowest roof in the back of the cave on two hueco pockets in the roof with fairly poor feet but they are there. A few choices here but most people end up in a bat-hang in the wide crack then switch to a heel-toe-cam and make a cool move to the lip of the roof. The holds at the lip seem bad but feel good when you are on them. Sink your fingers in to the crack and pull the last crux getting out from under the roof to better holds and the top.

A really fun climb. Beta intensive.

Location

the nice roof facing the marsh...

Protection

have a good spotter and a few pads...

Photos

Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
Bathang, scrunch, heel-toe, fingerlock, knee bar.

Meh. This thing is OK. I don't understand all the love it gets. Oct 22, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  V4
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  V4
haha... thats funny... those are some of my favorite moves...

it is more of a really short trad climb than a boulder problem... haha... Oct 22, 2008
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb is a BLAST. It's so freaking cool. Sep 26, 2013
Jerome Boutaud climbing Overlooked at Pawtuckaway and other classics around New England.

Local Climbs: Jerome Boutaud bouldering around Boston, Massachusetts from Action in Solitude on Vimeo. Oct 16, 2013
Ryan Salazar
Albuquerque, NM
  V4-5
Ryan Salazar   Albuquerque, NM
  V4-5
Definitely a unique problem, but the awkward kneebar finish detracted from the classic rating. Dec 27, 2018