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Routes in Devil's Den

Arch, The T C2
Bates Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crossroads T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Curiosity S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Devil's in the Details T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Easier Said Than Done T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Rayo X T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exorcist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friend of the Devil T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Heat Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Homebase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra Sanction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maximum Heat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speckman's T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Squeeze Play T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sympathy for the Devil T,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Elevation: 514 ft
GPS: 43.122, -71.187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,031 total · 109/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Apr 11, 2007 with updates from Eli
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

Devil's Den is home to the largest cliffs in the park and contains a collection of overhanging cracks, mellow chimneys, and steep faces as well as a few of the most difficult climbs in the area. New sport routes have popped up over the years in the 12-13 range while a number of the other climbs have been slowly reclaimed by lichen. There are a handful of multipitch routes scattered across the crag, although this area sees relatively little action. If you're looking for something hard, this is the place... check out Friend of the Devil 13a, Sympathy for the Devil 13b, or the unnamed arete out the right edge of the cave 13b.

Getting There

Follow the trail from Boulder Natural towards North Mountain which is well marked and easy to follow. In less than 5 minutes the cliff will be visible ahead.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Den

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
The Edge
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Homebase
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Heat Wave
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Edge
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Homebase
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Heat Wave
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Den »

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Photos

fez
fez  
there are guidebooks for devils den and all of the park they sold them at rei ems and IME. sweet trad in devils den ,like lycra sanction. really good deihedral near boulder natural 5.8 about 60 feet nice climbing . lower cliff has some sweet climbs also good leads . there is so much developed climbing there since before they started grading boulder problems with V's. long history in pawtuckaway of great climbing overshadowed by recent bouldering frenzy. but all climbing is sweet so rip it up! Oct 9, 2007
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Couple hard .12's and maybe a .13 in the past 5-6 years. Mar 25, 2010

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