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Routes in Devil's Den

Arch, The T C2
Bates Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curiosity S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Easier Said Than Done T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Rayo X T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exorcist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friend of the Devil T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Heat Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Homebase T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maximum Heat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Speckman's T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Squeeze Play T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sympathy for the Devil T,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
The_Pretty Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,510 total, 28/month
Shared By: Bryan Gilmore on Aug 3, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Awesome crack and face climbing on a beautiful (albeit, crumbly) left arching crack. Just standing below this wall is awesome. One of the best trad lines in southern NH.

Location

At the extreme right side of Devils Den, you'll find the most beautiful line in all of Pawtuckaway, Sympathy for the Devil, start here. You can't miss it, it's the tallest, proudest and most continuous section of rock in the area. For the Exorcist just follow the main crack arching left and then straight up. You can climb directly up the arete up top following the bolts at 5.12ish, but by reaching out left for a few moves you can keep it at 5.11. You can also start more directly by following a few ancient fixed pieces. Very good!

Protection

A full rack is needed, with a selection of cams for the start and then a handful of nuts for where the crack straightens out. Then a few draws for the arete up top.

Photos

Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
Location updated - if you need more help finding Devils Den, check out the guide book. Aug 4, 2013
Looks like a great route. Could you give more accurate location description?

Jim Aug 4, 2013