Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eli Buzzell, Shaun Aykroid, Doug Plourde
Page Views: 102 total · 14/month
Shared By: Eli . on May 7, 2018
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the Bate's Route, extending your pieces as far as possible, and placing minimally in this 5.4 section. About half way up take right leaning crack through big moves in a steep juggy section  to an exposed pedestal rest. Take the time to plug good gear here, and stem right into a bottomless shallow scoop that leads to a vertical slightly run out face on good crimps. Stop at a small horizontal to place your tiny last pieces before continuing to the chains on more positive crimps. Your heart rate will likely come back down as you reach the massive clipping jugs.

Location

Locate the Speckman's / Lycra Sanction area in the center of devi's den. This rock climb is easily identified as the face above a large clean roof to the left of the lycra sanction dihedral,

Protection

Gear from tiny wires up to #4 cams, microcams and ballnuts suggested. My gear beta is below, which I have provided because I don't want to sandbag someone into injury. I think it is a bit on the stiff side of PG13, but a little on the soft side of R. Your call.

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Gear beta spoilers:
Extend all placements.
- a #3 and #4 for the Bates Route
- .75 sized cam for below the steep section
- .4/yellow alien for the base of the crack
- .3/ green alien on the left side of the pedestal rest
- .2/ blue alien/ black totem & Red Ballnut or small wires for the final horizontal. This shit can feel pretty dicey. I doubled down on this placement as the cam is very shallow. Small pro is abundant on the left and right side of this horizontal crack.
- Anchor draws.

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