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Routes in Devil's Den

Arch, The T C2
Bates Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curiosity S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Easier Said Than Done T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Rayo X T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exorcist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friend of the Devil T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Heat Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Homebase T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra Sanction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maximum Heat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speckman's T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Squeeze Play T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sympathy for the Devil T,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,149 total · 13/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Dec 20, 2010 with updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

An aptly named chimney climb that doesn't get wider than about 18" for most of its length. Scramble up a few blocks and place the last of your pro for awhile before pulling into the very claustrophic chimney. If you wind up facing the wrong direction it's going to be a challenge to turn around. Friction your way up the smooth sides until you can stand up in an alcove. Plug some gear in the cracks and climb the right wall of the alcove on jugs to a tricky topout.

An old guidebook calls this the best chimney in Pawtuckaway.

Location

Uphill and left of the Exorcist, follow the trail up to the first tunnel and this chimney is on your right. To get back down, walk up and left then back down the trail through the tunnels.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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