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Routes in Devil's Den

Arch, The T C2
Bates Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curiosity S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Easier Said Than Done T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Rayo X T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exorcist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friend of the Devil T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Heat Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Homebase T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra Sanction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maximum Heat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speckman's T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Squeeze Play T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sympathy for the Devil T,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: 1985, unknown
Page Views: 139 total · 29/month
Shared By: Eli on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A thin crack that tapers out just when you need it most, climb it to the horizontal break, then plug some good gear, rest, and finish the last 15 or so feet on perfect 5.9 edges.
The protection is dubious and the crux is hard, but damn is the climbing good. When you are up there you may wonder how you are sticking to the rock at all, and when you fall it will probably be just as unexpected.
Bring your footwork, crimping skills, extra skin, and laser focus to this fight.

Originally done at 5.6 A2, this route was reportedly freed in 1985 at 5.12-PG. According to the '95 Todd Swain Guide, the route was sometimes referred to as "Why are the pins so far apart?". The PG protection grade, "AKA" name, and one particular pin scar lead me to believe that there was at least one pin fixed in the crux on the first ascent that is no longer there, leaving the route a very scary test piece. When my friend heard that it was sent at 'PG' he said, "what does that mean, Potential Ground-fall?" The route used to hit the horizontal break, then trend right into the Bates route, however there was an "A3 Hooks" variation which climbs 5.9 edges directly above the break. The current free route goes to the horizontal break, and continues directly up through this "A3" section to a two bolt anchor at the top of the cliff.

Location

Located on the blank looking wall in the middle of Devil's Den. It is a thin seam that ends at a horizontal break.

Protection

1 Bolt, thin gear for the crack, and a .75, #1, or #2 for the horizontal break. Protecting the crux from a ground fall is difficult, Ballnuts seem to be the only thing that work.

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