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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Tyler Hogan & Christian Prellwitz
Page Views: 2,044 total, 41/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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31 Opinions

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Description

This beautiful climb is a fantastic addition to the Devil's Den area.

Start sitting with both hands matched on the left side of the obvious wide rail. (The first ascentionist started with both hands matched on the sidepull feature.) Pull off the ground and move rightwards along the rail, using subtle beta, to eventually gain a good incut flake with the right hand. Then figure out a way to get your right hand to the arete/lip above (crux). This sequence is both powerful and technical.

Upon gaining the lip, traverse it leftwards to a monstrous top out jug. Throw a heel on and rock over. Done!

Location

This climb is located uphill of 'Red' and just downhill of 'Universal Socket'. It is near the start of the route climb 'Sympathy For The Devil'.

Protection

Two or three pads are helpful as the landing is mostly talus
Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
 
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
 
This really is a classic. It is certainly one of the best moderate problems I've climbed. It is proud but not too high, and the landing isn't as bad as it may seem because you aren't going to hit the slab behind you. I'm amazed no one took the time to clean this up until so recently. Sep 26, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Real good climb, another great addition Tyler/Christian. Landing is less than ideal, take care. Sep 26, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V6
I echo the sentiments of everyone else, this problem is an area classic! Cool thoughtful and core engaging climbing leads up to a pure power move to the lip, one of the most satisfying climbs I have done! As Mike said, CLIMB THIS!!! May 6, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Glad you enjoyed it! Nov 21, 2013
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
  V6
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
  V6
Christian... WOW! this is one of the best new additions to the park in a while and I would say one of the best 6's in the park! Keith and I climbed it today and sticking that lip is crazy satisfying! Thanks for cleaning and pointing it out... to everyone else.... GET ON THIS CLIMB! Nov 20, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Footage of this problem begins at 1:35

vimeo.com/79342137 Nov 16, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Bryce--

Thanks for the info.

While first ascents are always nice, ultimately that's not why we cleaned the line. We cleaned it because it looked rad. And we'd like to think that it is indeed a nice quality addition to the Den.

On a different note, what's the story with the prow above 'Universal Socket' (Devil's Trilogy)? Has it been done from a sit start? While I understand it's history as a route, in the context of Devil's Den it arguably makes more sense as a beautiful, hard boulder problem that starts sitting and finishes by dropping off from the jug. v9/10? Oct 23, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
I've been climbing around there for over a decade and have never seen that thing clean. The peak of Devils Den activity was around '98 though... Oct 21, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
We weren't sure whether or not this climb had ever been done before. If it has, it was likely quite a while ago based on the amount of vegetation on the line before we started cleaning it. (If anyone has any info on the history of this climb, feel free to share!)

We had been interested in this line for a while and finally got around to cleaning and climbing it today. It's a beautiful line and it climbs quite well. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area.

Get on it and let us know what you think!

For those that might be interested, there are possibilities for one or two quite hard lines on the overhang to the right of this. Most likely v10 and up. We haven't had a chance to clean those yet. One of the flakes might need reinforcing before people start yanking on it too hard. Oct 20, 2013