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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,484 total, 57/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Slippery feet and good locks....
Start up the steep, finger crack using some polished feet outside of the crack.... A tricky crux section of locking and perhaps a layback move will get your foot on the "horn" feature and an OK rest.... One more crux guards the top out involving a high, right foot, some power, and grace....

A very important climb for me....Probably the first "hard crack" I climbed, and it is still teaching me more than 10 years later...Climb it!

Location

The horn is just right of the easy to identify Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... Nice finger crack up a smooth vertical wall....

Protection

Nuts and cams to #0.75 Camalot (green)....
Fingers to small cams....

Top-rope may be set by slinging a boulder at the top and equalizing off of a small tree or two...
AWinters
NH
  5.10-
AWinters   NH  
  5.10-
5.9 me arse. If it were 10 or 15 feet longer it would get 4 stars for sure. The granite is so perfect. Aug 9, 2011
Ladd

  5.9
Ladd    
  5.9
My mistake. I remembered talking to Mike and he asked me who put the bolts there, he wanted to know whose work he chopped, although now that I think about it he could have been talking about a different route. Oct 29, 2007
Actually, the bolts in question that were chopped were not on the horn, but on the roof (5.7), and mike didnt chop them Mark "ron don snake bite" Clark did the chopping and I smoked a joint. Oct 29, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I agree with Ladd about the damage to the trees (though I don't want to see Pawtuck bolted)....
However, I build my TRs on this route mostly on the boulder at the top with a little help from small trees (pointless, I think), so on this route the anchor thing shouldn't be an issue, 'cause we won't wear out the boulder.... May 31, 2007
Ladd

  5.9
Ladd    
  5.9
History is that someone (I don't know who) borrowed Jay Miller's (old UNH prof./Grad student) and placed bolts where it would save the trees at Pawtuckaway. Very soon afterwards Mike Shore (a local photographer) chopped the bolts. This was about 2 1/2 years ago....

There was a forum thread about this topic on that other site

Climbers who are so ethically opposed to using bolts will find out soon that TRing off trees kills them and that it makes sense to have bolts when it'll save the top of the cliff's vegetation. I just hope there are some trees left when climbers come to this realization. May 30, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
What is the history of the chopped bolt at the top of this route? May 30, 2007