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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,052 total, 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Much harder than it looks! This route was once rated 5.6 but now is a stout 5.8....

The trick is knowing where to jam cause there are too many choices.... If you get the right locks, it will feel like hard 5.8.... If you don't, it will feel 5.10.... Practice makes perfect on this one, and that's what I like about Pawtuck crack climbing, hard work pays off and you will be a crack head in no time....

The crux is at the bottom, it eases quite a bit at the halfway mark....

Location

Just to the left of the horn, you will see a system of cracks.... Three parallel cracks of slightly different sizes...climb them....

Protection

Many options, a regular rack....

Belay/top-rope from trees or gear anchor....

Photos

JohnnyG  
My first lead fall, caught by my brother when he was about 13 yrs old. His first catch of a lead fall, the whipper totally surprised both him and me. A muggy day, my hands popped out, and I went soaring, lifting him right up off the ground till we collided softly in the air. There we were, dangling, wide-eyed and right next to each other. Sep 15, 2011
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
 
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
 
My favorite route name anywhere. Jun 24, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
this route has plagued me many a time and time again.... every time i go out to pway i decide to give it one more go and every time i wanna shoot myself after 30 minutes of trying to pull off the ground... i think i really need someone to help me out... cuz i just wanna ram my head into the crack.. :) Nov 20, 2008