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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,146 total · 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

So the old guide book gives this 5.6+... I would feel like a bad person calling it that since i can run laps on .9s and .10s and this one gives me trouble... Feel free to give your vote if you think its a walk...

Anyway, climb the hand crack leading up to the off-width above... That is the hard part... I found that grunting was helpful...

Location

A few feet right of Obscene Phone Call (5.8) there is an Off Width crack... Um... thats the route...

Protection

Bring a big OW cam if you lead it...

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.8
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.8
I don't know if you need the big gun for the lead, but I agree that this and OPC are both way .7+ or .8 Sep 10, 2009
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.8
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.8
#6 protects it beautifully, but there's also a smaller crack at the back that takes 0.3 to 0.4 -- I think it would be safe enough. Oct 27, 2014

I've added this photo for safety's sake. This rock moves and is just waiting for its chance to come down on your head. the topside is a jug that just screams to be grabbed and feels bomber until you actually go to make a move.Some climbers have marked it with chalk from time to time, but the rain seems to get to it. Please be careful out there Nov 9, 2015

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