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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,175 total, 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a somewhat chanenging bouldery start to gain the crack then with hands in the crack and feet mostly on the face make your way up and to the left... Eventually making a mantel move on to the top...
The gear can be a little tricky but its all there once you get past the starting moves...

I think this route is better to lead than TR due to its traversing nature...

Location

A bit left of The Horn(5.9) look for a left leaning crack starting behind a small boulder...

Protection

Regular rack, maybe some tri-cams would be nice...

Photos

Read Januskiewiecz
New England
  5.8 PG13
Read Januskiewiecz   New England
  5.8 PG13
Climbed it for the first time today so cannot compare to using the flake, but feels a bit harder than 5.7. Pretty interesting getting into the crack full value to the first piece for sure. Jun 12, 2016
Todd Soto
5.8 R
Todd Soto  
5.8 R
I whipped on this right as I was topping out. I give this climb 5.8 at minimum in its current state and it is definitely R rated. May 11, 2016
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
 
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
 
Happened about a month ago and definitely feels a little harder than the original grade. I've heard a hold broke about a year ago on the direct variation making it harder than 10a as well. Any insight on it? Oct 29, 2014
Just a heads up the large flake on the 5.7 has broken off, not sure when this happened. Oct 26, 2014
Jeremy A   NH
Finally climbed this after years of walking by it. Spicy start for sure. However now the start is definitely 8+. The easy flake 15' off the ground has fallen off. Bring a pad or a good spotter. Hopefully the belayer was standing back when that thing came off. 3'x2' by the looks of it, just glad it did not come off a few weeks back. Oct 6, 2014
OMG love this climb!!!! What a spicey, dicey, sustained lead!! The bottom is outstanding. It's a balancey, highish boulder problem, with some crazy moves to get over and get your first piece in. Strap on your jock straps boys and girls! Then the climb forces you to keep moving and just plug-and-go, do not stop, try and get to the top.... but Man oh man the top out is dirty and not so obvious. I actually fell on my last piece and lowered down to this little side ledge, and walked around and built the anchor. Tough!

Just like the other climbs up here, add a grade. This thing climbs like an 8. Oct 20, 2013
I'm pretty sure I felt that flake move on me. The crack is fun but the top out is a bit of a reach if you're only 5'7" like me. Cool spot. Jun 6, 2013
KTH
Southington, Connecticut
KTH   Southington, Connecticut
The flake above the slab start is not long for this world. I pulled two cams out of it in a fall. It expanded and the right side cracked. Don't trust it. May 20, 2012
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  5.7+
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  5.7+
The direct start in the crack goes at 5.10. Starting 6' left on the slab is the 5.7 start, although as a lead it's unprotected until you reach the crack. Apr 21, 2008