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Devilish Diversion
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British V0 YDS 4 Font
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Upper Cliff
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Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bishop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 |
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Diagonal T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Stuff T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tramp, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Boulder, 15 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 245 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | LGR on Jun 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
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Description
Balancy crimp start (crux) to a ledge 7 1/2 ft off deck, undercling, follow flake out right.
This is rated 5.6 in the 1995 Pawtuckaway guide, but is more of a boulder problem
This is rated 5.6 in the 1995 Pawtuckaway guide, but is more of a boulder problem
Location
The "Upper Upper Cliff." Hike up the Upper Cliff descent trail on the far right side of cliff (past The Start). Continue up past the top of the Upper Cliff. Notice a ledge with an obvious crack (Devilish Direct) on far right. Get on the ledge and walk left for 60 ft and notice a U-shaped ledge and big flake.
Photos
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