Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,436 total · 14/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Until I re-cleaned this route and tried the moves, I didn't realize that its name was actually a description. Desperate is right, especially if you're sick enough to lead it.

Starting nicely up a crack/flake and moving right to a jug, this climb turns stout and crimpy in a hurry. From the jug, match on a crimp/sidepull and enjoy the hard sequence past a 3-finger single-pad gaston, a half-pad undercling, and a slopey pinch to gain a jug in the depression. This is also your last gear placement if you're on lead. Move left and make a large move to a crimp before hiking your feet and attempting to find a sequence that will get you to the lip.

Location Suggest change

At the far left end of the Upper Cliff, just right of Far Out Jam and Bean Pole.

Protection Suggest change

Toprope. If you're plugging gear, think small and then reconsider even leading this.