Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,393 total · 12/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Until I re-cleaned this route and tried the moves, I didn't realize that its name was actually a description. Desperate is right, especially if you're sick enough to lead it.

Starting nicely up a crack/flake and moving right to a jug, this climb turns stout and crimpy in a hurry. From the jug, match on a crimp/sidepull and enjoy the hard sequence past a 3-finger single-pad gaston, a half-pad undercling, and a slopey pinch to gain a jug in the depression. This is also your last gear placement if you're on lead. Move left and make a large move to a crimp before hiking your feet and attempting to find a sequence that will get you to the lip.

Location

At the far left end of the Upper Cliff, just right of Far Out Jam and Bean Pole.

Protection

Toprope. If you're plugging gear, think small and then reconsider even leading this.

Photos

Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
haha brice i like your protection info lol :) this does look wicked cool but i would think the lead is up to the huge burly dudes who have nuts the size of grapefruits :) Jun 2, 2009
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  5.11c/d
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  5.11c/d
I just didn't want anyone to try leading this without realizing that there is only 1 gear placement (roughly a #6 stopper) in a span of 30 feet or so.

On a side note, I spell my name with a Y, not an I. Jun 3, 2009