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Desperate Depression
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Upper Cliff
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Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Beanstalk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X |
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Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 |
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Diagonal T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantastic Face TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Friction Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X |
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High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Max Factor T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Stuff T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trad Ramp T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tramp, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twice the Trouble T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wedged T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,501 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | BDalhaus on Jun 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Until I re-cleaned this route and tried the moves, I didn't realize that its name was actually a description. Desperate is right, especially if you're sick enough to lead it.
Starting nicely up a crack/flake and moving right to a jug, this climb turns stout and crimpy in a hurry. From the jug, match on a crimp/sidepull and enjoy the hard sequence past a 3-finger single-pad gaston, a half-pad undercling, and a slopey pinch to gain a jug in the depression. This is also your last gear placement if you're on lead. Move left and make a large move to a crimp before hiking your feet and attempting to find a sequence that will get you to the lip.
Starting nicely up a crack/flake and moving right to a jug, this climb turns stout and crimpy in a hurry. From the jug, match on a crimp/sidepull and enjoy the hard sequence past a 3-finger single-pad gaston, a half-pad undercling, and a slopey pinch to gain a jug in the depression. This is also your last gear placement if you're on lead. Move left and make a large move to a crimp before hiking your feet and attempting to find a sequence that will get you to the lip.
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