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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,302 total, 13/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Until I re-cleaned this route and tried the moves, I didn't realize that its name was actually a description. Desperate is right, especially if you're sick enough to lead it.

Starting nicely up a crack/flake and moving right to a jug, this climb turns stout and crimpy in a hurry. From the jug, match on a crimp/sidepull and enjoy the hard sequence past a 3-finger single-pad gaston, a half-pad undercling, and a slopey pinch to gain a jug in the depression. This is also your last gear placement if you're on lead. Move left and make a large move to a crimp before hiking your feet and attempting to find a sequence that will get you to the lip.

Location

At the far left end of the Upper Cliff, just right of Far Out Jam and Bean Pole.

Protection

Toprope. If you're plugging gear, think small and then reconsider even leading this.

Photos

BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
I just didn't want anyone to try leading this without realizing that there is only 1 gear placement (roughly a #6 stopper) in a span of 30 feet or so.

On a side note, I spell my name with a Y, not an I. Jun 3, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
haha brice i like your protection info lol :) this does look wicked cool but i would think the lead is up to the huge burly dudes who have nuts the size of grapefruits :) Jun 2, 2009