Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,217 total · 44/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

70 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This one seems to get harder every year...Though it is graded 5.7, I still feel like I'm going to fall every time I do the first moves.... The foot holds have been polished to a marble finish by years of use, you're welcome for the excuse, now forget the grade and climb the route 'cause it's still fun no matter how slippery the starting feet are....

Climb the crack up under the roof place a few good pieces and follow the crack out right and up to a ledge, find the good feet.... A great climb with good gear.... You can also exit the roof to the left or straight over at a harder grade but the right finish is the most fun....


Near the left side of the upper cliff is a crack corner heading up to a triangle roof.... This feature is hard to miss....


Regular rack to #1 Camalot.... Belay or TR from trees.
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
This is an awesome route, if you are top-roping the route check out the faces on either side, they're fun as well. Apr 8, 2007
New Hampshire
rdlennon   New Hampshire
Start is the crux. The crack in the dihedral is full of dirt (as of early fall 08), so jamming isn't really an option. Using the face holds I think bumps the grade up a tad. The roof section is way easy compared to the first 15 feet. Nov 26, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
it was nice and clean when i was on it a couple weeks ago... i find that a mix of jams and crimps works best... right hand in the crack left hand crimp up high and a high left foot, then you are in it... Nov 26, 2008
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I did the face to the right today and it is really fun, probably goes around .9 or 9+ by Pway standards. Aug 4, 2010
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
If the roof is wet it becomes the crux, had a very interesting encounter with it this weekend. Oct 24, 2011
J Meagher  
Anybody else think the start of this feels 5.10- ish? Nov 13, 2013
S. Neoh  
Twenty or 21 years ago it felt like 5.8(?). Good gear. Going over the roof on the right is fun, like Lee said. Nov 13, 2013
Lon Hohberger
Hudson, NH
Lon Hohberger   Hudson, NH
The start foothold has been worn smooth from years of abuse, I think, making the start move the crux these days. The rest isn't technically difficult, though the roof can be burly. Feb 5, 2014
Kittery, ME
Cron   Kittery, ME
Neat/awkward moves to get off the ground - that foot hold is the most polished piece of granite I've ever seen! Nov 16, 2015