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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,808 total, 45/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This one seems to get harder every year...Though it is graded 5.7, I still feel like I'm going to fall every time I do the first moves.... The foot holds have been polished to a marble finish by years of use, you're welcome for the excuse, now forget the grade and climb the route 'cause it's still fun no matter how slippery the starting feet are....

Climb the crack up under the roof place a few good pieces and follow the crack out right and up to a ledge, find the good feet.... A great climb with good gear.... You can also exit the roof to the left or straight over at a harder grade but the right finish is the most fun....

Location

Near the left side of the upper cliff is a crack corner heading up to a triangle roof.... This feature is hard to miss....

Protection

Regular rack to #1 Camalot.... Belay or TR from trees.
Cron
Barrington, NH
 
Cron   Barrington, NH
 
Neat/awkward moves to get off the ground - that foot hold is the most polished piece of granite I've ever seen! Nov 16, 2015
Lon Hohberger
Hudson, NH
  5.8
Lon Hohberger   Hudson, NH
  5.8
The start foothold has been worn smooth from years of abuse, I think, making the start move the crux these days. The rest isn't technically difficult, though the roof can be burly. Feb 5, 2014
S. Neoh  
Twenty or 21 years ago it felt like 5.8(?). Good gear. Going over the roof on the right is fun, like Lee said. Nov 13, 2013
J Meagher  
 
Anybody else think the start of this feels 5.10- ish? Nov 13, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.7
If the roof is wet it becomes the crux, had a very interesting encounter with it this weekend. Oct 24, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
I did the face to the right today and it is really fun, probably goes around .9 or 9+ by Pway standards. Aug 4, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
it was nice and clean when i was on it a couple weeks ago... i find that a mix of jams and crimps works best... right hand in the crack left hand crimp up high and a high left foot, then you are in it... Nov 26, 2008
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.7+
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.7+
Start is the crux. The crack in the dihedral is full of dirt (as of early fall 08), so jamming isn't really an option. Using the face holds I think bumps the grade up a tad. The roof section is way easy compared to the first 15 feet. Nov 26, 2008
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
This is an awesome route, if you are top-roping the route check out the faces on either side, they're fun as well. Apr 8, 2007