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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 885 total, 9/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Jun 1, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This short & spicy crack that climbs out a bulge and then up an arete is a decent intro to the grade, although it doesn't appear to get climbed too often. A good scrubbing might make it more appealing. Layback the crack to start and pull up right to a good crimp with your feet underneath the small overhang. Work your feet up and follow the crack while you consider pulling an unprotected crux to a good stance. Plug your "thank god" gear, then scramble up onto the ledge. Finish up Double Jam on the left.

Where Is It?

5' right of Double Jam, this route climbs the crack on the bulging arete.

Protection

Cams up to .75 or passive gear of comparable size. Toprope off of trees at the top.

Photos

Lon Hohberger
Hudson, NH
  5.11a
Lon Hohberger   Hudson, NH
  5.11a
I found this one to be one of the few non-sand-baggy routes at Pawtuckaway, possibly because it's rarely climbed and thus has plenty of grip. Feb 5, 2014