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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,913 total, 22/month
Shared By: Brendan Blanchard on Nov 4, 2010
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

There are some decent holds inside the crack, not too many face holds. Just wonderful awkward off-width jamming.

Location

The off-width to the right of the chimney, left of the three parallel jam cracks. Approach to the right up a switchback type trail, find the route by looking for the 4 ft bulge of rock next to the chimney.

Protection

Large cams will get the job done. Best top-roped from the trees above, several good options.

Photos

Peter Sullivan  
  5.7
Not very tall (i.e. short stuff) but can easily be TR and a good place to practice off-width Jun 11, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
First off-width I ever lead, the gear is fine, but it definitely wasn't an easy or fun time. Just kidding, I had a lot of fun. Jul 12, 2015
jimmyjamz
  5.7 PG13
jimmyjamz  
  5.7 PG13
i agree with 'russ' and 'read.'

5.6 does not come to mind on this climb. 5.7PG is a more realistic rating. awkward, tough lead. Sep 7, 2014
Read Januskiewiecz
New England
 
Read Januskiewiecz   New England
 
I agree its a bit awkward but if you are competent at placing gear it's not that bad. Maybe not a route to break into the grade but if your looking at off widths your probably a little twisted and this is a fun intro to the wide stuff with out having to dry heave on lead. Jun 18, 2014
This climb is kind of ridiculous. It's a ballsy lead. Very very awkward. Think 5.7 PG but don't try it unless you are experienced!! Oct 20, 2013